A fun boulder! Sit start of blue 4. Top holds are good but there can be a small puddle right behind them, even after a few days without rain.
A low traverse, followed by a tricky move to get established and reach up to some nice Font slopers. A really good "First 7a", and very doable for shorties.
Great slab with an interesting pushing move in the lower part and a rather dynamic move to the edge (for shorties).
A bit hidden in the back of this area in a little cave this boulder starts in steep terrain in the cave and can be finished with a nice kneebar going out left.
The first move of this boulder really packs a punch but pretty cruisy once you're off the ground. Sitstart with the two low diagonal crimps and exit directly.
Shorties (like me at 163 cm) might need to deploy some extra hand movements to gain the good left slot and the right hand sloper to set up the high heel, but overall this climb favours crimp and heel
A hidden gem in a dark corner, this has a tendency to 'sweat' in moist conditions. Sitstart on good crimps, without a crashpad. There are several different ways up, and different frames will climb ve
Keeping tension when exiting the roof is the hard part for shorties!
On Bleau.info the information tells you: Sitstart under blue n°18 and exit in that one. The sitstart is easier with a kneebar. Finish the boulder as blue n°18. Online you see the topout a bit more to
Start in a sitting position with a left heel hook; left hand is grabbing the edge of the corner, right hand is in the lower mini pocket (2-3 fingers). Create some tension to hold your body in place an
Sit start with your hands in the obvious & very good holds left and right to you. Move into the left direction, position your feet a little higher and reach up above the lip. Double your hands and h
Sit at the right hand side of the obvious ledge and climb it to the left. At the jugs you need to make a big move up right to the lip. It's not as far as it looks! Great practice for a dynamic move
Départ assis, possible de partir avec les jambes vers la gauche ou la droite. Super fun overhanging compression route with a sitstart that is easier for the short :-)
Stand start, don't use the long holds on the right side
The left rock Sit start and go up with the right arrete
Stand start on the left rock, traverse to the right and exit in Moon Dog pedestal is allowed*
Start with a juggy undercling pocket. I skip the obvious side pull to go straight to the next pocket with my left hand, allowing me to lean right and maximize on the pocket to bump up my feet and righ
Le coincement de pied droit est pas essentiel mais sympa, bien partir du fond de la cave avec le bac :)
Hi Helen!
Thanks for the informative post. I would add that it is worthwile to start following the forecast days leading up to the trip, and take a look at reports of actual weather (meteoblue alloNice and comfy boulder with great holds all the way! Fun move to the top from the undercling in the big hole. But if those throws aren’t your style, place a solid kneebar in the slot and cruise static
Hey everyone,
my first post pregnancy Fontainebleau Trip with my daughter (around 8 months then) is coming up and I was wondering, if anyone has some tips for me. I have heard, that the processionary
This bloc is not often dry. It needs a couple of days without rain to do it, nice line.
Le bloc a été ouvert par mon voisin, c'est une sorte de petite boule avec une presse. Preferez les jours froids pour y aller car c'est mieux de faire le haut si ça colle...
Heel-toe cam matched with right hand from the start, and then going right hand first did it for me as well!
Very hard for me. I grade it 6C, at the end of my video is the hard move in isolation, more beautifully climbed, but I was too tired. Just want to say it's possible to do it not as desperate as my cli
La version 7c démarre des règles du fond, traverse sur le rail à droite et remonte en utilisant l'écaille.
Update bleau.info (April 2024): The starting hold is about to break off, please do not try this boulder.
It feels impossible to get your butt off the ground, but when you push your hips into the wall, you get tension on both legs and stand very securely in the position to reach further.
Not sure if I (Stef) climbed it too much to the right, but that way does not involve the big move all the boys do in bleau.info ;)
Cool line! I could use a right kneebar to stretch out to the dish - it's definitely harder if you are too short to do so..
It would be good to avoid using the sandy hold just after the start to prevent the broken hold from further eroding
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!
Brilliant feature - make sure to use a right heel to take weight off for the middle moves.
Super fun climb - the holds are positive at the top - just have to be precise with your movement to get there.
Brilliant line - great introduction to technical slab climbing in Fontainebleau - a must do!
For the stand start (7a) I used a left heel to make the transition in the opening moves easier - it felt like it fit me quite well to do this, I'm 167 cm in height and ape. Then reasonably good holds
I had many desperate attempts on the mantle, before figuring out I could place my left toe on the edge. I uploaded a video of it, maybe someone will find it useful :)
hello there,
could you please let me know where to find Bleautiful? last time I was looking for it in Cuvier Merveille, unfortunately without any success :(
looking forward to receiving some clues
I really appreciate your effort, time and energy to publish these articles and to raise awareness of topics like a sustainable climbing culture around Fontainebleau. I always liked the pro-active appr
Sympa cet article qui essaie de décrire ce que signifie le grès humide au lieu de juste critiquer les grimpeurs qui cassent des prises . Je rejoins entièrement ton analyse sur le fait que le grès d'ap
I booked a trip to Fontainebleau for October and November but had to cancel last minute due to a climbing injury. If you are planning a visit during that time, please consider this sweet Airbnb in Arb
Hiya Heather, there is a Betty meet-up planned for October 14 and November 19, so do join us if you’re around. Are you travelling on your own or do you have a crew?
Hi all, I'm planning a trip to Fontainebleau in November for a few weeks. I was wondering if there is a bit of a community there/ anyone also planning a trip in November that I could team up with for
According to bleau.info the 6c boulder is to the left of what's shown in the video. The variant in the video is an easier variant.
Hahaha, I opened this post thinking it was about a boulder called "Found Birkenstock" and pondered on the "beta" for a second before I realized... :D
There's a video of this by Michelle on YouTube: https://youtu.be/dtH4NwsnGNs
Beautiful line. Did this boulder following a straight line without using the bucket on the left, makes the line very nice/pretty to climb.
When you have your left hand on the sloper just before the t
A foot match on the crescent out right allows a high heel and its pretty much over. Not sure about the exit, maybe I should have carried on straight up rather than going slightly right.
Hi Maja, agreed with Helen.
One simple pad is enough for this block. Cheers
Hi Maja, in my opinion you don’t get to stack pads for foot holds. It’s definitely a grey area stacking pads anyway, but for me I feel reaching hand holds is legit because it’s impossible without. I
Ethics question/discussion: does going straight into the heel hook via a stacked pad count as a tick? On the one hand only the starting holds are defined on bleau.info and there's public ascents start
Hello! I really would like to come to this -- I live in Paris and want to take the RER and a bike to get there, and go back in the evening. Do you have more details about where and when to meet on the