Wonderfully high slab where the hard moves are at the bottom. Stand start at the left end of the gully next to Supplement d'Armes, and keep your head as you reach for the sky!
A neat little mantle out in the middle of nowhere. Start with the left holds on the lip. Not to be confused with Coup de Poing 7a+ that starts with the right holds.
A completely non-characteristic boulder in Font, with lots of 3-dimentional climbing. Sitstart at the right, under the right-hand dongle, and traverse your way over to the exit above the furthest lef
If you ever get tired of dicey moves way up in the sky over dicey landings, where a tiny foot slip will land you in the hospital, come check this line out. It's a nice low lip traverse on slopers,
Starts off with some fingery moves that suit the small and light well, followed by a bad sloper or two that don't really suit anybody. Then it finishes with a rather scary mantle over a rather ugly l
A fun boulder with a little bit of everything: crimp rail with a horizontal jump to a slot, then traverse the lip for an easy mantle. What's not to love? This boulder is hidden away at the far end
Precise heelhooking, slopers squeezing and a bit of compression will get you up this beautiful classic. Short people will have to start with a smaller right hand than others, but it gladly doesn't mak
There are three Mandarins, but this is the one everybody actually does. Its original name was probably "you did [Mandarin (sans convention)|https://bettybeta.com/bouldering/fontainebleau/roche-aux-oi
Interesting, squeezy moves in a strenuous position. Even when you're doing everything right, it's a battle to stay attached to the boulder. Fun stuff.
The first move looks really far at first but the high foothold will make the move possible (I am 1.68). The last move is reachy as well but again, enough footholds to make it doable. Might be harder t
The sit start is more of a hanging start if you're short, because you can't reach the hand holds with your butt on the ground. Traverse to the right and exit with a cool mantle.
Thanks for the video and the beta! I'll go back and try it soon ??
I can not send it yet but use a double toehook on the right and bumb to the sloperledge first before going to the arete
Hi! I've tried this line last year but couldn't span the big move to the left (I am 1.68m). Does anyone have an alternative beta? Or do you just need to be tall to do this boulder? ??
Sit start in the centre of the groove, make a strong move up to crozzly slopers, and move right to a good hold on the arete. Keep it together for the topout.
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!
A boulder that looks reachy at first, but a little ingenuity makes this problem possible. Start with the left hand pinch, the right hand in the pocket, and a foot lock in the big hole. Short legs make
Sit start at the right hand end of the boulder and traverse to the left along the lip. Make a move under the nose, and do one of the coolest mantles ever at this grade!
Sit start under the nose, and reach up to the lip. Make a super cool mantle on the right hand side of the nose.
Nice boulder with quite a far move up. I used a heelhook on the big hold next to my hand. Mantle is easier when you’re short so perfect boulder for girls
Sit start just on the edge of the rock, with a sidepull pocket for the right hand, and a high left heel. Push with the right foot to generate a bit of momentum to reach an undercut sloper for the lef
The sweetest girlie roof in the forest. Cool moves and lots of opportunity to pull out the flexibility, creativity and finesse. Worth seeking out.
Fun fun fun moves out the roof, and then you have options. This option heads straight out right to a big sloper and a fight to get established above.
I am not dynamic at all, after a few failed attempts with the long move i decided spontaneousely to try, and it worked out :-)
aka Le Cachou debout; You really need a certain hight/ape to start! Compressing slopers
some good crimps in a sort of cave, then beautiful turtleback
I love your beta Petra! That right hand near the top looks like it might be the key! I’ve always struggled to set up for the final move on this problem! Thanks for sharing!
great problem, because it's not much easier for tall guys
A classic of the forest. Fun, technical climbing that's doable (though harder) for shorties. The mantle up top isn't hard, but still it's handy to have a spotter.
Really good article, thanks Zofia. It's nice to put into perspective what I'm sure all of us feel from time to time. And yes, it all comes down to self-acceptance, self-love and self-confidence. Onwar
It’s rather humiliating how long it took to topout, but maybe short-people-beta will be useful for someone :)
I will be alone. I’m happy to do an early morning! And I work with little kids, so love having them around. Would you be alright if I took transport to meet you somewhere (your home or somewhere publi
Are you alone or will you have family along? We live around Font, and I’ll have my 6-year-old son with me and could possibly climb on the Wednesday, or if you could get down early enough from Paris w
Hello! My name is Alexandra, and I will be visiting Paris the week of March 16th. Would anyone want to climb together in Font. (avail 17th-19th)? I typically lead/top rope, but it seems like boulderin
Really easy moves up to the bigger move to the edge. I found a small pocket/undercling on the left side (not the one you use later to get up). I put my right heel with my hands and get that pocket wit
If you have short arms, this problems looks impossibly wide at first glance. But you can outsmart the powerful moves with some sneaky footwork making this problem an enjoyable entry-level 7a.
On the video on bleau.info the climber uses an undercling on the right. For me it felt easier to use the right undercling starthold for a heelhook after the first move, and just use the arete for hand
Very nice mantle on top of a fingery traverse. Short climbers with small fingers can match hands in the first diagonal before reaching to the end left sloper.
Un 6C un peu corsé de mon point de vue mais les mouvements sont tellement classe, je ne m'en lasse pas ! ??
Big throw to start things off, then a funky mantle and some crimps above. A little of everything, really. It's hard for shorties because of that huge blind jump at the beginning and the subsequent
I’m looking for any top tips anyone may have for speeding up recovery rate. I want to be able to climb when the weather’s good, and not have to wait 3 days for my body to catch up!!
A fun traverse along the lip of a roof, with some tiny crimps that work for small fingers and no reaches anywhere in sight.
Just saw the video of Le Denmat in La Super Prestat, I guess for him the answer is that it doesn't matter at all haha. (Link : https://vimeo.com/162671061)
I wouldn't had put it into Morpho since I'm only 1,62 cm and I did it but it's obviously easier if you're taller (I do agree).
I've seen this boulder is became a 7a in bleau.info...
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Instagram - License_to_climb - Bouldering since 201700:03 Bali Balan, 6B, Apremont EnversVideo starts 00:03
Instagram - License_to_climb - Bouldering since 2017Video starts 00:37
Instagram - License_to_climb - Bouldering since 2017I found this quite a bit harder than Surf Betty because I couldn't keep my feet on with my hands on the top. Taller folk seem to find it somewhat easier. The beta I used makes up for the difficulty,
Ok, so I'm biased because I opened this line, but it is so much fun for someone of just my height!! Sit start to the right of the wave, matched in a pocket, and avoiding the pedestal. Move out to a
I see this just now! Tried close contact but started to rain. Next time!
I am short, not terribly bold, and nearly always climb on my own, feel free to look at my list of ascents for ideas, but I really recommend a day at Drei Zinnen on Close contact and Bifurcation :-)
It looks cool but a little high. I am all alone so don’t have any spotters. Maybe another time. If you have other nice suggestions of not to high boulders graded from 6c untill 7b let me know. I will
Thanks! Silvergrey was fun, fits perfectly for shorties. Nice line I think. I will check out the other boulder aswell, thank you for your help
Awesome, let me know how you get on. Silvergrey is quite straight forward for shorties, and you might try https://bettybeta.com/bouldering/fontainebleau/mont-simonet/poignee-damour too if you’re feel
Oh haha that’s a bummer! I see on video’s that even taller people start squatted aswell. We’ll see, going to give it a try today!
Good thinking, Maybe that would work, but I just got grumpy and went to climb something else !! ??
Damnit! What did you do? Just squad start and a bit higher? I noticed there is a not so good hold down there too. I thought maybe use that instead for the left hand and put a toe or heel around the le
Sorry, I had the same problem, I don’t think the start goes at the same grade for shorties!
The boulder looks amazing but the sitstart is quite stretched, I can not get my butt anywhere near the ground if it starts on both sides. Any suggestions? Where do you start? Thanks for the help!
Unlike on the bleau.info video I went up left hand first. Left foot on the good foothold and right foot just against the rock. The key for me was to do the sit start without a crashpad because my righ
The description on Bleau.info is quite messy, is this starting on the right with an undercling to go to the right for the first move (with a left toe and a right hell hook) or is this starting more on
It is. This page is actually the result of a mis-spelling way back on our first day of entering data for BettyBeta, and should be hidden from view for anybody who's not a moderator. Here's the actua
Why isn't this route into Bleau.info? Looks so nice to climb!
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I tried this but couldn't reach the left hand crimp, what span can it be done with? i.e. do I have to be taller or just stronger?!
I figured it was the top right jug that was out because bleau.info says "...and exit to the left, without the sidepulls right" so it suggests it's when you're topping out that you need to avoid the ju
That’s the same as the videos on bleau.info. It is the description there that is confusing (“sitstart in the little pit”). Traversing in from the left is definitely better. But I can’t claim a FA for
Thank you :) that's also my favourite combination
Hello girls,
Helen is right, the original version of Black Hole Sun start before the start that you did but maybe you can send it as a first ascent like "Black Hole Sun (raccourci)". If you want to s
Hey Christina,
I did have the same trouble, espacially with bra haha. I didn't found a secret yet since my body is more like a 34/36 and which my shoulders it's not the same. But well, I do wear frIf I have to choose one crash, it's always my Ocun Dominator because it's very nice for ankles :)
I am back in font for the next four weeks. Rio Bravo is maybe wet now after the rain but i dont know.
I would love to meet you girls anyway. Maybe we can climb together at Rio Bravo or somewhere el
Hello Josie,
This boulder is friendly for short people with a special start : You can start with a double toe-hook or a heel hook (the last one was my beta) and hold the start hold :)
I agree 100% - and I think it's a very important topic you talk about!! If we want to conserve this wonderful forest as a climbing area (and that's our interest), we have to respect such guidelines.