Stunning 6/7m wall with crimps and long moves.
Beautiful boulder with a large variety of climbing styles : crimps into steep climbing into a spicy slab.
A unique and very funny roof with about 20 mouvs. Bring a knee pad if you don't want to end up with bloody thighs!
A beautiful little climb that, for once, is easier for smaller climbers!
An occasional repeated dwarf surrounded by Cuisinière’s giants, a boulder that gives goosebumps! It has a hard lock-off move and a high heelhook, my favorite moves!
Beau bloc très complet avec des réglettes au début, un mouvement dynamique puis une traversée avec talon. Le bloc a un super grain et il se trouve dans un endroit très paisible.
Tricky sitstart, tough on the left fingers. Nice Boulder!
One of the hardest i‘ve ever climbed in that grade!
The first very powerful move ends in a painful sidepull. After matching this central crux hold you have to pull far to the right top hold. Really cool and technical problem.
Crazy Bicycle start. Feels much easier than 6c+ of you are shorter.
The Crux is to find the top out crimps to the right and a mini mini crimp to the left. Try to find a good grip to put your feet high, there you can see the crimps.
The footjam at the start makes the move possible. First it feels unpossible but at the last mm before reaching the hold, the jam lifts you up! Second trick: find the kneebar :D
Sit start and make a dynamic move to the lip, followed by a delicious mantle
A fun pumpy swing around on crisp slopers and eventually a few sharp jugs to help turn the lip.
A short, steep, thin crack with powerful moves that suit small frames and strong little fingers.
A completely non-characteristic boulder in Font, with lots of 3-dimentional climbing. Sitstart at the right, under the right-hand dongle, and traverse your way over to the exit above the furthest lef
A fun low boulder in the middle of the area. This line is the shorter version of the 7a which tops out all the way on the right.
Sit start under the nose, and reach up to the lip. Make a super cool mantle on the right hand side of the nose.
Sit start at the right hand end of the boulder and traverse to the left along the lip. Make a move under the nose, and do one of the coolest mantles ever at this grade!
Starting right side of the roof, crossing over,powerful pull on the left side of the roof for top out.
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!
Lying underneath and doing a reverse roll. Lots of fun for you and even more your friends.
Sit start low on the right and follow the rising traverse to the arête. Mantle on the left of the nose.
Nice traverse on a lowball. Some climbers use it as a good warmup for the classic ‘Magic Bus’, which starts all the way in the back of the roof.
One of our favourite all-time 6as, this engaging traverse is a great 3D workout. Save some energy for the mantle at the end.
Not sure if the line is correct. Skipped one hold but rest is the same
Hello, can anyone tell me what the correct start is for this problem versus the droite-assiss?
My height and ape make a sitstart Impossible without stacking pads. I feel like not doing one doesn't change the difficulty, what do you girls think?
Since I'm not that tall, I needed to sort my feet quite some and
add extra moves. Super cool line!
Small moves on good edges and one explosive pop to the lip. The hard part is not dabbing the rock behind during the mantle. Short legs are an advantage here
The mantle was tricky for 7a+. There's a lot of possibilities, but really only one way that works. It did take some time to figure it out
Il est tout à fait possible de caler un talon droit dans le trou et de croiser main gauche en inversé dans ce même trou. Cela permet daller chercher la main droite de manière statique ??
A beautiful sequence of crimpy holds!
The main point for me was to keep my core and body position in control.
Very nice dyno!! it's my anti style but was able to top it :) I am 1m70 so definitely doable for shorter people!
48°26'29.1"N 2°41'03.4"E
https://maps.google.com?q=48.4414192,2.6842871&hl=en-GB&gl=uk
You need to use only the slopers for the top out. The big hole/jug/sidepull up there is out. That makes the top trickier and cruxier :)
Location: 48°20'09.8"N 2°40'25.6"E
https://goo.gl/maps/MkpDpELEscrRWXBc8
Location: 48°20'09.8"N 2°40'25.6"E
https://goo.gl/maps/MkpDpELEscrRWXBc8
I didn’t start on the left but also didn’t use the undercling, but hopped straight to the top instead. Who knows if that’s correct? ;)
Le 1er mouvement est morpho, le reste est 5 étoiles! Pour la méthode, j'ai mis un talon gauche pour croiser sur la bonne règle main gauche et ensuite sortir.
Hey, I have to raise the question again: On Bleau.info it says “start without the big pocket right hand”. I started pretty much like Hanna here did and I felt the first move was hard and getting out o
Good to know! It looks like a fun climb and you did a great job on it. Just shared what’s on bleau.info for informational purposes :)
I have been there in March 2022, and even heavier climbers than me climbed on the block, but we didn't notice any movement. Only there was a sound of two big trees knocking when moving against each ot
Has anyone done this recently? Info on 27Crags and bleau.info is different. The low traverse is suuuuper low, I don’t have any beta for it. Ideas?!
Please be aware of the following warning about this boulder on bleau.info: “Caution (April 2019) : some climbers have reported that the boulder is slightly moving. Be very careful if you try it and te
I found this harder and more terrifying than it probably "should" be. The landing is intimidating.
It’s worth checking this video on YouTube, even though it’s not a girl climbing. Patch has some beta that works for folks with legs too short to reach the high heel sweet-spot. This is the way I did
Thank you so much Josie @shortbleaubeta for the best of the photos ????.
Great little problem well worth a try. I’m 5 foot 1” so works for the shorter person.
Dropped pin
Near 77300 Fontainebleau
https://goo.gl/maps/DjxTJqQRtikHzqtTA
Parking ... There is a bit of an issue with the regular parking space. Officially it is closed. People do still park there, but there is a slim chance you could get a ticket. If you do risk it, ple
There is a tiny left foot that helped me to barely reach, then get the balance to match.
I could do the "taller-person" beta, with a left heel and then move up the left hand. Required my fullbody extension, then get the balance to match. Kind of nice move when sticking it.
Most beta videos on the web are done with 2 big moves, which I can't do. I found another beta https://www.instagram.com/p/CbZXB2ljjwq/
Il y a une méthode pour petits avec un coincement de genou droit.
Quelqu'un aurait une méthode pour quelqu'un qui fait moins d'1m60 ? Je n'arrive pas à envoyer la main droite en haut et garder les pieds en même temps. J'ai essayé en les montant au plus haut ou en me
I think we do have to put it lower than taller fellows. There is a place where it holds, it's smiring a bit. I posted a video I think you can see where I put it. Good luck next time :)
La traversée du bas ne rajoute pas grand chose à la difficulté et rend l'escalade presque pénible parce qu'on doit rester accroupi et qu'on ne peut pas tendre les bras si on ne veut pas toucher le sol
Un bon bloc pour les brutes de la poutre qui n'y verront que du feu! Gooooooo!!!!
Ce bloc n'est pas un incontournable de la foret, il est (de mon point de vue) difficile pour la cotation et un peu morpho. Plus facile pour les grands, pour sûr. En plus il est un peu loin de tout...
Allez y avec beaucoup de pads pour se sentir en sécurité. Le crux est le réta.
Petit tip méthode ( spoiler alert :P ) : je mets mon pieds droit sur la prise noire du bas et pas le pied gauche comme