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Josie, 1 day ago, reported an ascent of Le Poli Soir 7a at Justice de Noisy
Céline Terrier, 2 days ago, reported an ascent of Full Métal Pétasse 7a at Vallée Chaude
Jessie L., 2 days ago, reported an ascent of Le Toit Triangulaire 6a at Franchard Isatis
Jessie L., 2 days ago, reported an ascent of Luna 6a at Franchard Isatis
Josie, 2 days ago, reported an ascent of Courte Torsion 6a at Franchard Hautes Plaines
Jessie L., May 20, reported an ascent of Pantomime 4 at Gorge aux Châts
Jessie L., May 20, reported an ascent of Vent Couvert (raccourci) 6a+ at J.A. Martin
Françoise Klock, May 20, reported an ascent of Pierrot 7b at Marion des Roches
Updated May 19:
Bossanova 7a
Franchard Hautes Plaines

Really beautiful line on the right arete of the boulder which can be found on the top of the hill on the west side of the sector. Took me some tries to figure out the exact beta and sequence. The move

Theresa K, May 13, reported an ascent of Téléphone Maison 7a+ at Rocher des Souris
Meike, May 13, reported an ascent of Agile Talon 6a at Rocher Saint-Germain Est
Updated May 12:
La Narine (assis) 6a
Roche aux Sabots

A cute little overhanging prow next to the slap Licifer. A sitstart with the pocket and a good hold followed by some nice compression moves and a mantle on top.

Updated May 12:
Édam 5

Amazing edge with amazing jugs at the top. Small, but good footholds.

Updated May 12:
No Mojo 6b
Roche aux Sabots

Shorter people will need to use the crimp on the left. Taller people will probably prefer avoiding that crimp and bumping from the crack directly to the top.

Sophia Götz, May 12, reported an ascent of La Padonnée (assis) 6b at Apremont Milan
Sophia Götz, May 11, reported an ascent of Frodo 6a+ at Apremont Brûlis
Jessie L., May 11, reported an ascent of Pot de Colle 5+ at Roche aux Oiseaux
Sophia Götz, May 9, reported an ascent of Bossanova 7a at Franchard Hautes Plaines
Sarah Voigt, May 9, reported an ascent of Powerslave 7a at Apremont Ouest
Sarah Voigt, May 8, reported an ascent of Soupçon 5+ at Maunoury
Sarah Voigt, May 8, reported an ascent of Kut de Crêpe 7a at Maunoury
Sarah Voigt, May 6, reported an ascent of Vent Couvert (droite) 6a+ at J.A. Martin
Updated May 5:
Powerslave 7a
Apremont Ouest

If you ever get tired of dicey moves way up in the sky over dicey landings, where a tiny foot slip will land you in the hospital, come check this line out. It's a nice low lip traverse on slopers,

Updated May 5:
Dévers Mais T'es pas Sûr 7b
Apremont Désert

Small moves on good edges and one explosive pop to the lip

Updated May 5:
Le Casse-Dalle (assis) 7a
Franchard Isatis

A sit start to a red problem that's pretty fun on its own. Sadly for shorties, it helps to have a bit of extra reach for the first move. Good technique and flexibility can make up for it, but be pre

Updated May 5:
Le Biceps Mou 7b
Bas Cuvier

Strength and body tension are key to this little roof.

Jessie L., April 23, reported an ascent of Le Pélican 6b at Roche aux Oiseaux
Aurélie Blaise , April 22, reported an ascent of Le Crunch Stat' 7a+ at Coquibus Auvergne
Josie, April 22, reported an ascent of Chien Assis 6a at Apremont Est
Céline Terrier, April 21, reported an ascent of Perlim 7a at Justice de Chambergeot
Aurélie Blaise , April 20, reported an ascent of L'Homme Volant 7c at Rocher des Souris
Céline Terrier, April 19, reported an ascent of Mojo Failing 7a at Petit Rempart
Lisa Vogl, April 18, reported an ascent of Goriak 7b at Cuvier Bellevue
Lisa Vogl, April 17, reported an ascent of Lullaby (direct) 7a+ at Apremont Ouest
Lisa Vogl, April 17, reported an ascent of Fatwoman 7a at Gorges du Houx Oiseaux de Proie
Beatrice Milanesi, April 15, reported an ascent of Kut de Crêpe 7a at Maunoury
Lisa Vogl, April 14, reported an ascent of La Marie-Rose 6a at Bas Cuvier
Aurélie Blaise , April 14, reported an ascent of Hackebärli Fin 7a at Rocher Fin
Aurélie Blaise , April 14, reported an ascent of Parallèle / Fifty 7b at Rocher Fin
Celine de Waal Malefijt, April 14, reported an ascent of Montée Divine 7a at Mont Aigu
Celine de Waal Malefijt, April 13, reported an ascent of Uruguay 7a at Roche aux Oiseaux
Josie, April 13, reported an ascent of La Pyramide Marbrée 6a at Cuvier Rempart
Lisa Vogl, April 12, reported an ascent of Cross-Fit 7a+ at Rocher du Télégraphe
Lisa Vogl, April 12, reported an ascent of Plat au Nez 6c at Rocher de la Reine
Lisa Vogl, April 12, reported an ascent of Baby Boum 6c at Rocher de la Reine
Lisa Vogl, April 12, reported an ascent of Plato Knows 6c+ at Rocher de la Reine
Updated April 9:
Magic Bus 7b+
Buthiers Piscine

A low, powerful, roof that's not too reachy and has actual holds. What's not to love?

Updated April 8:
Holey Moley 7a
Bas Cuvier

Friction-dependent, beta-dependent, technique-dependent. If any of those things are lacking, you'll find it harder than some of the 7b's in the area.

Updated April 8:
Lullaby (direct) 7a+
Apremont Ouest

Popular problem just off the path at the start of the area, it may be easier for the short to do this method than the 7a variant with the right hand arete. Stand start with hands lower than seems obv

Updated March 31:
Narcose 7a
Apremont Envers

Not sure on this one, but having played around on it, would say for 7a you miss the big sloper on the left... disagrees tho. And it was super! hot when I was trying it.

Updated March 31:
Makhno (sortie par Ludus) 7a
Cuvier Nord

Start as for Makhno, with the two crimps get a high left hook, then left sloper - right sloper. Beautiful.

Updated March 31:
Kilomètre 162 (assis) 6c
Drei Zinnen

A big lock off at the end, key is to fully trust the left foot!

Updated March 31:
Le Poli Soir 7a
Justice de Noisy

Be careful not to step on the ancient carvings on the big pedestal!

Updated March 31:
Chocolat 7a
Justice de Noisy

Beautiful traverse with mostly slopers, where the first few moves are definitely the hardest. Finish on the left of the nose with a very doable mantle into a victory jug

Updated March 31:
Vipère Poussette 7a
Cuvier Nord

The lower part was easy for shorties, but then the mantle harder than expected

Updated March 31:
Assis T'es pas Gâté 6a
Rocher Saint-Germain

This is a fun problem (Red #30) with a sit start into a slightly overhanging bulge. It has some powerful moves that seem harder for shorties but high heel hooks and foot placements can help make up fo

Updated March 31:
Les Tétines 7b

Updated March 30:
Big Mama 7a
Cuvier Rempart

Photo by Stefan Denys

Updated March 29:
Chorizo 7a
Rocher des Demoiselles

Nice balancy problem. Good friction slopers on top

Updated March 28:
Sexe et Dentelles (assis) 6b
Rocher des Demoiselles

Tricky start around the arete and then keeping it together at the top. Technical nice line

Updated March 28:
Sitting Bull 7b+
Apremont Ouest

Ooh! There's some amazing girls-only trickery to be found on this boulder. Go do it now! The conventional start is from the pinch and the crimp, but with your feet further under the roof. As

Updated March 28:
Le Lot de Boudins 7c
Franchard Isatis

A fun traverse along the lip of a roof, with some tiny crimps that work for small fingers and no reaches anywhere in sight.

Updated March 28:
Retour aux Sources 7a
95.2 Ouest

Sitstart, crimp for left hand and hook with the right. Long move to a good crimp with right hand that can be avoided using the bad slopery part on the right. There are different variations to do the t

Updated March 28:
L'Entre-Toit (direct) 7a
Franchard Isatis

On the backside of the El Pussah boulder this is a fun non-Font-esque 3D boulder problem that poses more of a problem if you are less than 155 tall! Avoid the eliminated holds as described on Bleau.i

Updated March 28:
Le Pare Dessus 7a+
Gorge aux Châts

Easy moves to start with, up to the bigger move to the crimp. I found a small pocket/undercling on the left side of the jug that you normally use for the big move to the crimp (not the one you use lat

Updated March 28:
Phase Finale (sans convention) 7a+
Gorge aux Châts

A boulder that looks reachy at first, but a little ingenuity makes this problem possible. Start with the left hand pinch, the right hand in the pocket, and a foot lock in the big hole. Short legs make

Updated March 28:
Acid 6a
Rocher du Potala

Updated March 27:
Silvergrey 7a
Mont Simonet

This boulder is perfect for shorties. You have to swift your weight on your left heel to manage to hold the slopers and traverse to the right. It has a good landing so with two pads you can easily do

Updated March 27:
Le Miroir 5+
Rocher du Potala

Beautiful vertical and crimpy line, starts a bit to the right then moves left - 6a, not 5+

Updated March 18:
Action Directe (assis) 7a
Roche aux Oiseaux

A low traverse, followed by a tricky move to get established and reach up to some nice Font slopers. A really good "First 7a", and very doable for shorties.

Updated March 18:
Uruguay 7a
Roche aux Oiseaux

If you have short arms, this problems looks impossibly wide at first glance. But you can outsmart the powerful moves with some sneaky footwork making this problem an enjoyable entry-level 7a.

Updated March 18:
Plastikman 7a
Franchard Isatis

This is the left variant of Donnant-Donnant that tall guys do because it has a crazy big jump to the lip. But there

Updated March 18:
Graviton 7a
Roche aux Sabots

This is one of those lines that sucks you in. You'll get up to the slopers on your first go, and they don't even feel that bad at first. But the mantle is crazy hard no matter how you go at it (and

Updated March 18:
Quartier Latin 7a
Franchard Isatis

Big throw to start things off, then a funky mantle and some crimps above. A little of everything, really. It's hard for shorties because of that huge blind jump at the beginning and the subsequent

Updated March 18:
Abdolobotomy (assis) 7a
Franchard Isatis

Looks pretty straightforward, sitting there right on the trail. Easy to pad out, no bad fall potential. Those slopers do look a bit slippery but really, how hard can it be? Narrator: *It was n

Updated March 18:
De Brevitate Vitae 7a
Franchard Isatis

First move is easier if you're tall, but can be done by shorties using a couple of terrible crimps in opposition. Pulling the roof, it helps to be small, so it all works out in the end.

Updated March 18:
Respect d'Intention 7a
Franchard Isatis

Fun problem that feels hard at first but succumbs to plenty of feminine-foot-trickery. Sit start under the roof, and move out to the arete with powerful moves on a left heel hook at the back of t

Updated March 18:
Goriak 7b
Cuvier Bellevue

Un super mouvement avec une inversée MG qui se déclenche en dynamique et qui se termine stat.

Hanna Wegbrant, March 17 on Da Moskitov

I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!

Jacquelyn Moore, February 27 on Le Flipper

Brilliant feature - make sure to use a right heel to take weight off for the middle moves.

Jacquelyn Moore, February 27 on La Pierre et le Sabre / La Belle Arête

Super fun climb - the holds are positive at the top - just have to be precise with your movement to get there.

Jacquelyn Moore, February 27 on L'Angle du Sérac

Brilliant line - great introduction to technical slab climbing in Fontainebleau - a must do!

Jacquelyn Moore, February 27 on Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire

For the stand start (7a) I used a left heel to make the transition in the opening moves easier - it felt like it fit me quite well to do this, I'm 167 cm in height and ape. Then reasonably good holds

Ida Selin, February 3 on L'Auvent Tripotant (raccourci)

I had many desperate attempts on the mantle, before figuring out I could place my left toe on the edge. I uploaded a video of it, maybe someone will find it useful :)

Ay Lin, January 28 on Bleautiful

hello there,
could you please let me know where to find Bleautiful? last time I was looking for it in Cuvier Merveille, unfortunately without any success :(
looking forward to receiving some clues

Rob B., November 19, 2023 on This is Our Playground ….

I really appreciate your effort, time and energy to publish these articles and to raise awareness of topics like a sustainable climbing culture around Fontainebleau. I always liked the pro-active appr

Helen’s hidden , November 10, 2023 on How to tell if a hold is wet

Sympa cet article qui essaie de décrire ce que signifie le grès humide au lieu de juste critiquer les grimpeurs qui cassent des prises . Je rejoins entièrement ton analyse sur le fait que le grès d'ap

Terri Lesher, October 2, 2023 on Airbnb in Arbonne

I booked a trip to Fontainebleau for October and November but had to cancel last minute due to a climbing injury. If you are planning a visit during that time, please consider this sweet Airbnb in Arb

Helen Dudley, September 22, 2023 on Fontainebleau in November

Hiya Heather, there is a Betty meet-up planned for October 14 and November 19, so do join us if you’re around. Are you travelling on your own or do you have a crew?

Heather, September 21, 2023 on Fontainebleau in November

Hi all, I'm planning a trip to Fontainebleau in November for a few weeks. I was wondering if there is a bit of a community there/ anyone also planning a trip in November that I could team up with for

Germaine Pötgen, September 19, 2023 on Mardi Gras

According to the 6c boulder is to the left of what's shown in the video. The variant in the video is an easier variant.

Petya Metya, September 14, 2023 on Found Birkenstock

Hahaha, I opened this post thinking it was about a boulder called "Found Birkenstock" and pondered on the "beta" for a second before I realized... :D

Petya Metya, September 14, 2023 on La Voie Passive

There's a video of this by Michelle on YouTube:

Elo, July 27, 2023 on Les Grattons du Baquet

Beautiful line. Did this boulder following a straight line without using the bucket on the left, makes the line very nice/pretty to climb.
When you have your left hand on the sloper just before the t

Anna Trybis, July 8, 2023 on Boudak

A foot match on the crescent out right allows a high heel and its pretty much over. Not sure about the exit, maybe I should have carried on straight up rather than going slightly right.

Aurélie Blaise , June 29, 2023 on La Moreau (assis)

Hi Maja, agreed with Helen.
One simple pad is enough for this block. Cheers

Helen Dudley, June 29, 2023 on La Moreau (assis)

Hi Maja, in my opinion you don’t get to stack pads for foot holds. It’s definitely a grey area stacking pads anyway, but for me I feel reaching hand holds is legit because it’s impossible without. I

Maja Lecher, June 29, 2023 on La Moreau (assis)

Ethics question/discussion: does going straight into the heel hook via a stacked pad count as a tick? On the one hand only the starting holds are defined on and there's public ascents start

giulia, June 25, 2023 on Wolverine

Il a l'air trop bien ce bloc. A-t-on obligatoirement besoin d'un knee pad ou est'ce que c'est faisable sans?

Beatrice Milanesi, June 17, 2023 on Anak

Topo says to start with the lowest two crimps. So I started with my left hand on the smallest crimp and the right one on the good one. I found the move harder in that way.

Helen Dudley, June 11, 2023 on La Raie Publique

It’s awesome!! ????

HR, June 11, 2023 on La Raie Publique

The conversation in the back of this video is hilarious

Elena Marshall, May 19, 2023 on Simply the best!

Hello! I really would like to come to this -- I live in Paris and want to take the RER and a bike to get there, and go back in the evening. Do you have more details about where and when to meet on the

emma bullivant, May 6, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

I’m at the campsite you suggested :) it’s so beautiful I thought I’ll stay for the night to get some rest and see what’s what in the morning :)
Thanks Helen :)

Helen Dudley, May 6, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

Hiya, we are still meeting up to talk about opening new boulders. It’s going to be a bit wet, so I’m not sure how many will come, but I’ll be there between 11am and 12.

emma bullivant, May 6, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

Hi Helen, just seen the site that tomorrow is cancelled and the weathers not looking good for the rest of the week :( probably gonna head to the coast if that’s the case hey. But thank you again for g

Jantje Schelp, May 6, 2023 on Found Birkenstock

Found the right shoe of a pair of brown Birkenstocks in Coquibus Auvergne. I put it under the Crotale Boulder. Hoping it finds its way home!

Helen Dudley, May 2, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

Hiya Emma,

These are two free bivouacs, where you can park overnight without worries

1. Dropped pin

2. Parking Bourron (bivouac)

Helen Dudley, May 2, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

Hiya Emma,

These are two free bivouacs, where you can park overnight without worries

1. Dropped pin

2. Parking Bourron (bivouac)

emma bullivant, May 2, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

Hello, I’m emma I’m really excited to be heading there for the women’s meet up on the 7th and just wondering about the best place to camp in the van near by? If anyone has a recommendation that would

Yana Last, May 1, 2023 on Le Difficile

Being small makes this slab more of a challenge, but adds some amazing moves! For me, this meant a toe hook start and a slow stand up with an undercling edge near the top. Enjoy!

Terri Lesher, April 30, 2023 on Pulpfriction (debout)

The Jingo Wobbly Top Secret guidebook calls the version in this video Tabac Froid 5c. There’s a Tabac Froid 5+ on, but the photos and video there show a climber on the face to the right. I

Ida Kretschel, April 28, 2023 on Kut de Crêpe

The big ledge around the right corner (not visible on video) is eliminated. I placed my heel quite a bit before the crack on the wall.

Dani P., April 28, 2023 on Pulpfriction (debout)

Hi Jessie, I ran into the same contradiction as you. The stand start on the left didn't feel like a 6b either, more like 5+, in my opinion. I interpreted the foto and description of to mean

Jessie L., April 27, 2023 on Pulpfriction (debout)

Hi Helen, got it. Thanks for the explanation, I hope so as well!