The more standard beta is to move the right hand first from a right heel hook with your left foot on the face. There are several footholds to choose from but they felt too low or too high for me, so I
This short boulder at the back of the sector packs a lot of fun into a few moves, with a sit start, heelhook (or two), and a mantle finish. The intermediate hold options make it accessible to short an
Jolie ligne à la roche d'Hercule dans le toit, qui demande du gainage au move dynamique ????
If you can control the swing by locking off and getting your left heel on the edge as soon as possible, this problem works well for shorter climbers.
If you maintain body tension, keep your feet on the ledge as long as possible and control the swing, this problem works well for shorter climbers.
If you maintain body tension and you can keep your feet as long as possible on the ledge, this problem can work for shorter climbers. If you can control the swing afterwards and lock-off, you can top
This long traverse is perfect for shorter climbers, with high feet and a lot of handhold options that make it easy to avoid big reaches.
Traverse from right to left under a roof (taller people can stand, shorter people can use low hands and crouch/ limbo their way through that section) and finish with cool moves on the left face.
Tricky sit start and delicate, balance-y moves on good holds to an easy topout.
This video will give you the idea, but I apparently started a move or two in; videos on Bleau.info show the start with hands matched just below and right of mine. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXdx26
A tricky sitstart and very low traverse to fun, powerful layback moves, with a pure mantel finish that is doable once you lean in and commit. It’s shady in the morning, so a nice option for warm days,
Thanks! :) I'm 167 cm and my partner is 164, so might be on the limit (but not TOTALLY out of reach)..
Very nice feature. Good heelhook. There's a small ridge on the rock just before the second hold. I couldn't always reach the second hold in one time so this helped me to bum through. Reaching over the
This one feels impossible until you find the right beta. Once you have your feet sorted, though, suddenly you're on top of the boulder. A good introduction to the grade.
Just left of Atomic Playboy, next to the yellow circuit. Low sitstart in the overhang and exit by a mantle above just like Stairway to Heaven. Caution (July 2019) : a nest of hornets is often in the
I'm 1,69m / 5,54 feet tall and have a negative wingspan...I hope this helps??
Start with a juggy undercling pocket. I skip the obvious side pull to go straight to the next pocket with my left hand, allowing me to lean right and maximize on the pocket to bump up my feet and righ
Loved this little overhanging traverse. It suited me much better than my taller boyfriend who was a bit cramped underneath the ledge.
Start in a sitting position with a left heel hook; left hand is grabbing the edge of the corner, right hand is in the lower mini pocket (2-3 fingers). Create some tension to hold your body in place an
Red 29 bis. A fun dynamic challenge. Shorter folks may find it easier to go with the right hand (as in video), but left hand is also possible for some!
This was really cool. Beta: Taller guys I was with went for the top with their right foot on the good edge that you go to in the first move. I needed to work a left foot onto the lip where there is a
A fun traverse along the lip of a roof, with some tiny crimps that work for small fingers and no reaches anywhere in sight.
Are the startholds ever dry? It looks fabulous but I don't want to destroy it. Obviously... So I wonder when chances are best?!
It depends on what you like. For steep, gym-like pocket pulling, I suggest Le Toit Ouvrant, a 6a at Franchard Isatis, and it’s 6a neighbor, L’Angle d’Incidence (which was a bit harder, with a trickier
Very nice problem but a bit hard on the left hand fingers.
A fun lowball that seems to suit both shorter and taller climbers. Sitstart with one hand in an undercling and one on a side pull rail; you choose which hand goes where, either way seems to work ((or
Anyone have any ideas about a good first v3 for a beginner climber who is small (under 5ft)?
A variation of the popular 7a L'Imparfait (droite). It starts the same (low sitstart over left) and traverses right to ascend the center of the face using the big pocket out left. (Note that the left
Fantastic 3D roof climbing in a shady, quiet spot in the forest. An unusual style for Fontainebleau, the holds are quite sharp, so take some tape! Un joli toit qui ne s'envole pas. Amatrices de ré
Great boulder!
If you lack in wingspan a little knee on the right helps you to reach the crimp with your left hand & then you can easily put your right foot on the foothold.
Short but satisfying crimpy line with lots of options for hands and feet to suit all heights and shapes. Landing initially looks intimidation but is fine with one or two pads
I also found this line on bleau.info when I wanted to add the boulder to my to-do-list: https://bleau.info/cuvier/315183.html (it's called participe present assistant). Anyway, the boulder is really c
Beautiful big boulder in the first part of the area. Sitstart boulder of yellow n°17 (L'Arête Piého 2). Have two hands on the big ledge. Mantle yourself half way up with the big hole. You have an
You can find this boulder on the line between Le Toit Triangulaire 6a ( close to Le Bilboquet d'Isatis, blue n°50) and Luna 6a. Closer to Luna,just in front of it. You start in sitstart position a
There is only « le participe présent » (you start directly with the horizontal crag) and « le participe passé » which I think it’s the sit version of « le participe présent » if I’m not wrong (a frien
Sorry, I’m a bit confused — if this is "le participe passé" then what is the difference to "le participe présent (assis)" ? Does anyone know ?
Pas forcément besoin de faire le move en dynamique quand t’es petite mais je trouvais ça cool de pouvoir le faire avec ma taille !
Overhanging sitstart boulder. You sitstart and exit in orange n°16: La Voie Dure à Bras. It helpt my not to mantle up in the heel, but just to use it to hold my position and move my recht hand to the
On the way to Gaia (on the top of the ridge) you will pass this low funny boulder. It's a sitstart boulder and you can use the left arete. You start wit the left hand on the arete and with the right h
Very low sitstart boulder with easy slab walkout. I choose a different footholds to hold both of my hands in the startposition.
Very low, but funny boulder. Start at the left and exit at the left. There are many ways to mantel up. Moving up the right hand so I can push made a difference for me.
Don't be intimidated by the big cross over move in the middle. Focusing on keeping the right heel hook locked in really helped me to do the move!
Yeah, wow. Pretty much everything you should never do in the forest, combined into one video.
I have no idea how that slipped past us. I almost feel like leaving it, so that people have an exampThat one older video of people climbing it in a wet night session should be removed so as not to give a bad example to new climbers!
Hi Helen!
Thanks for the informative post. I would add that it is worthwile to start following the forecast days leading up to the trip, and take a look at reports of actual weather (meteoblue allo
Hey everyone,
my first post pregnancy Fontainebleau Trip with my daughter (around 8 months then) is coming up and I was wondering, if anyone has some tips for me. I have heard, that the processionary
This bloc is not often dry. It needs a couple of days without rain to do it, nice line.
Le bloc a été ouvert par mon voisin, c'est une sorte de petite boule avec une presse. Preferez les jours froids pour y aller car c'est mieux de faire le haut si ça colle...
Heel-toe cam matched with right hand from the start, and then going right hand first did it for me as well!
Very hard for me. I grade it 6C, at the end of my video is the hard move in isolation, more beautifully climbed, but I was too tired. Just want to say it's possible to do it not as desperate as my cli
La version 7c démarre des règles du fond, traverse sur le rail à droite et remonte en utilisant l'écaille.
Update bleau.info (April 2024): The starting hold is about to break off, please do not try this boulder.
It feels impossible to get your butt off the ground, but when you push your hips into the wall, you get tension on both legs and stand very securely in the position to reach further.
Not sure if I (Stef) climbed it too much to the right, but that way does not involve the big move all the boys do in bleau.info ;)
Cool line! I could use a right kneebar to stretch out to the dish - it's definitely harder if you are too short to do so..
It would be good to avoid using the sandy hold just after the start to prevent the broken hold from further eroding
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!