Beautiful traverse with a powerful start, Crux in the mid-section (barn door) and flowy finish.
Petit bloc avec des mouvements puissants et techniques à caler
This bloc is not often dry. It needs a couple of days without rain to do it, nice line.
Le bloc a été ouvert par mon voisin, c'est une sorte de petite boule avec une presse. Preferez les jours froids pour y aller car c'est mieux de faire le haut si ça colle...
Hidden around the most popular areas, this block offers several beautiful lines which can be climbed in quiet. This main line offers wonderful moves between the two aretes involving several heel and t
A not too hard sit start for strong and small fingers followed by a little reachy second move and a nice heel hook beta that leads you to the top.
A nice easy slab with big incut holds. Maybe a bit soft for the grade, but I hear that it has some history behind it, so give it a try if you're passing by... hold on? That was the tech department d
Heel-toe cam matched with right hand from the start, and then going right hand first did it for me as well!
Starts with some powerful moves out of the roof, to some slopers around the corner and ends with a long throw to a pretty good lip. topout is nice and easy, so nothing to be scared of!
Petit bloc derrière la Prestat. Très adapté quand on grimpe en solo.
If you cannot reach the crimp before the dihedral, there is still a way!
Fun boulder for all toe-hook loving bettys with strong and flexible hip flexors!
Shorties (like me at 163 cm) might need to deploy some extra hand movements to gain the good left slot and the right hand sloper to set up the high heel, but overall this climb favours crimp and heel
Nice and challenging 5+ Boulder (No. 26 of the red circuit), located close to the Éclipse/L'Autre Toit block (slightly north, north-east). Starting with two fairly good underclings in the low roof to
Un super mouvement avec une inversée MG qui se déclenche en dynamique et qui se termine stat.
La Myosine is a really fun, compact boulder problem with some powerful moves. It’s a bit hidden in the first part of the sector, but it’s just of the main path to the namesakes of this area.
Nice boulder problem located at the lower left part of the sector, the top is not very high. Powerful move at the start and the rest is quite straight forward. Different Betas for the first move (e.g.
Very hard for me. I grade it 6C, at the end of my video is the hard move in isolation, more beautifully climbed, but I was too tired. Just want to say it's possible to do it not as desperate as my cli
This boulder is low and has little moves. That's why the moves are quite hard! A far move to the last hold needs some explosive power.
La version 7c démarre des règles du fond, traverse sur le rail à droite et remonte en utilisant l'écaille.
Update bleau.info (April 2024): The starting hold is about to break off, please do not try this boulder.
It feels impossible to get your butt off the ground, but when you push your hips into the wall, you get tension on both legs and stand very securely in the position to reach further.
Not sure if I (Stef) climbed it too much to the right, but that way does not involve the big move all the boys do in bleau.info ;)
Cool line! I could use a right kneebar to stretch out to the dish - it's definitely harder if you are too short to do so..
It would be good to avoid using the sandy hold just after the start to prevent the broken hold from further eroding
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!
Brilliant feature - make sure to use a right heel to take weight off for the middle moves.
Super fun climb - the holds are positive at the top - just have to be precise with your movement to get there.
Brilliant line - great introduction to technical slab climbing in Fontainebleau - a must do!
For the stand start (7a) I used a left heel to make the transition in the opening moves easier - it felt like it fit me quite well to do this, I'm 167 cm in height and ape. Then reasonably good holds
I had many desperate attempts on the mantle, before figuring out I could place my left toe on the edge. I uploaded a video of it, maybe someone will find it useful :)
hello there,
could you please let me know where to find Bleautiful? last time I was looking for it in Cuvier Merveille, unfortunately without any success :(
looking forward to receiving some clues
I really appreciate your effort, time and energy to publish these articles and to raise awareness of topics like a sustainable climbing culture around Fontainebleau. I always liked the pro-active appr
Sympa cet article qui essaie de décrire ce que signifie le grès humide au lieu de juste critiquer les grimpeurs qui cassent des prises . Je rejoins entièrement ton analyse sur le fait que le grès d'ap
I booked a trip to Fontainebleau for October and November but had to cancel last minute due to a climbing injury. If you are planning a visit during that time, please consider this sweet Airbnb in Arb
Hiya Heather, there is a Betty meet-up planned for October 14 and November 19, so do join us if you’re around. Are you travelling on your own or do you have a crew?
Hi all, I'm planning a trip to Fontainebleau in November for a few weeks. I was wondering if there is a bit of a community there/ anyone also planning a trip in November that I could team up with for
According to bleau.info the 6c boulder is to the left of what's shown in the video. The variant in the video is an easier variant.
Hahaha, I opened this post thinking it was about a boulder called "Found Birkenstock" and pondered on the "beta" for a second before I realized... :D
There's a video of this by Michelle on YouTube: https://youtu.be/dtH4NwsnGNs
Beautiful line. Did this boulder following a straight line without using the bucket on the left, makes the line very nice/pretty to climb.
When you have your left hand on the sloper just before the t
A foot match on the crescent out right allows a high heel and its pretty much over. Not sure about the exit, maybe I should have carried on straight up rather than going slightly right.
Hi Maja, agreed with Helen.
One simple pad is enough for this block. Cheers
Hi Maja, in my opinion you don’t get to stack pads for foot holds. It’s definitely a grey area stacking pads anyway, but for me I feel reaching hand holds is legit because it’s impossible without. I
Ethics question/discussion: does going straight into the heel hook via a stacked pad count as a tick? On the one hand only the starting holds are defined on bleau.info and there's public ascents start
Hello! I really would like to come to this -- I live in Paris and want to take the RER and a bike to get there, and go back in the evening. Do you have more details about where and when to meet on the