Sharp little crimps and a bit of a jump if you're short
Start way back under the roof, and stem your way out through a weird runnel up to the inconvenient holds round the bulge. Beta varies widely, so find your own fun!
A boulder that looks reachy at first, but a little ingenuity makes this problem possible. Start with the left hand pinch, the right hand in the pocket, and a foot lock in the big hole. Short legs make
Superb 7c fun in the sun! There are all manner of ways to climb this, so try anything. Sitstart slightly to the right on a good sidepull, then use a whole lot of balance and body tension to levitate
Really fun 7b+ on crimps. It starts lower than you think, in a small cave, but a sneaky knee-bar helps. Pull out of the cave to the right and keep climbing. The holds are all good, it just takes a
Nice prow! Powerful first move. Placing a heelhook for the second move was the key for me.
Sit start and some of the moves are much harder if you are ~under 160cm.
Nice little problem. Same start as Le Nez (rallonge), then exit the small roof directly above you. Nasty sloper to mantle out.
Nice line to work on your slopers skills (even if you don't like them)! This beta is the small way to do it, taller people doesn't use hell hooks :) Sorry for the knee, this was the first go so I did
This one feels impossible until you find the right beta. Once you have your feet sorted, though, suddenly you're on top of the boulder. A good introduction to the grade.
A bit of a one-move-wonder, this one. But that can be good if it's one move that suits you. The move in question is a strong pull off the ground using a good undercling over your head. If you can d
A super classic slabby arete that needs precise footwork and a bit of optimism to pull off. If you're realistic about the chance of those footholds sticking, you're doomed. Convince yourself that th
If you ever get tired of dicey moves way up in the sky over dicey landings, where a tiny foot slip will land you in the hospital, come check this line out. It's a nice low lip traverse on slopers,
What an awesome girl problem! An amazing mantle into a scoop that fits small frames and only works with good technique.
Un super mouvement avec une inversée MG qui se déclenche en dynamique et qui se termine stat.
The right undercling is broken and pretty soft. It's easy to use another handhold instead. Rest of the rock seems pretty alright and safe.
I'd believe it. I just remember seeing a video of someone doing it that way and thought how fun it looked!
According to Bleau.info, starting with he bat hang is the 6a version, but it looks way more fun ??
A low traverse, followed by a tricky move to get established and reach up to some nice Font slopers. A really good "First 7a", and very doable for shorties.
Yes, it starts with a hard move to pull off the ground using that undercling, then moves left to the crack. Bleau.info has a good video.
Does this line begin with the big undercling or how does it work? Also it is rated 6b on 27crags :)
Did you work it out Josie? Sorry I didn’t reply straight away. If you go to the ‘contributing’ section, in the first bullet point, there’s a line in blue text... ‘import individual lines from Bleau.
Hey Helen, how do I import a line that is not on the website yet?
Hi Girls,
I would like to improve my dyno skills and I was wondering if anyone knows suitable dyno's for people who are shorter (I am 168). I did Keo (7a - Canche aux Merciers) and La Quille (en jete
Might be easier for shorter people because the foot holds are pretty close to the hands. Jumping backwards with both hands feels a bit scary at first but after a couple of tries and some commitment it
The jump is far but not impossible if you are shorter. The difficulty is the pore footholds and crimpy side pulls from where you have to jump.
Amazing, thank you Dani!! I'll try it again next time I go to Rocher St Germain! :)
Hi Chloé, I've added a photo of the start, it should be uploaded soon. I remember I've needed the big crashpad to reach the starting holds, and the rest of the boulder was more like a battle, but with
Does anyone have a beta for someone who's 165cm tall or less? I can barely reach both starting holds at the same time, so lifting a foot is nearly impossible o_o;
I'm usually very bad at dyno so I'm so happy to top this one!
My trick was to keep both feet on the lower rock, it's easier to push when i jump up forward
It’s overhanging with very nice jugs all to the end.
The arete in the end is far for me so I had to transfer my bodyweight to my right feet and reach the arete with left hand
Alternative Beta for the roof section: If you‘re a little too short to keep your feet on the ledge to reach around to the slopers, a little jump works just fine ;)
This didn't feel particularly hard for the grade, but I think its a mistake to try and use the lower footholds if you're short.
De toute façon, le plus dur c'est vraiment de se lever, je pense que quelqu'un peut y aller 15 fois et pas se lever, c'est vraiment particulier ????? Perso je me lève de face, mon copain n'y arrivait
Bonjour Celine, Je sais que cette route est un peu déroutante, mais je pense que ca dépend de l'angle de lequel vous la regardez. Autant que je sache, la prise de départ est légèrement à droite et ten
Bonjour à toutes,
La description de bleau.info a été mise à jour suite à ma demande sur le site (dans la partie suggestion).
« Départ assis avec des verticales et sortir directement »
Ce n’est donc
I did some different beta than most; a palm down on the left hand, to snatch the top with my right.
Thanks for the video and the beta! I'll go back and try it soon ??
I can not send it yet but use a double toehook on the right and bumb to the sloperledge first before going to the arete
Hi! I've tried this line last year but couldn't span the big move to the left (I am 1.68m). Does anyone have an alternative beta? Or do you just need to be tall to do this boulder? ??
By the way, you created a unique website here Helen, i love it!
I am not dynamic at all, after a few failed attempts with the long move i decided spontaneousely to try, and it worked out :-)
I love your beta Petra! That right hand near the top looks like it might be the key! I’ve always struggled to set up for the final move on this problem! Thanks for sharing!
great problem, because it's not much easier for tall guys
Really good article, thanks Zofia. It's nice to put into perspective what I'm sure all of us feel from time to time. And yes, it all comes down to self-acceptance, self-love and self-confidence. Onwar
I will be alone. I’m happy to do an early morning! And I work with little kids, so love having them around. Would you be alright if I took transport to meet you somewhere (your home or somewhere publi
Are you alone or will you have family along? We live around Font, and I’ll have my 6-year-old son with me and could possibly climb on the Wednesday, or if you could get down early enough from Paris w
Hello! My name is Alexandra, and I will be visiting Paris the week of March 16th. Would anyone want to climb together in Font. (avail 17th-19th)? I typically lead/top rope, but it seems like boulderin
On the video on bleau.info the climber uses an undercling on the right. For me it felt easier to use the right undercling starthold for a heelhook after the first move, and just use the arete for hand
Un 6C un peu corsé de mon point de vue mais les mouvements sont tellement classe, je ne m'en lasse pas ! ??
I’m looking for any top tips anyone may have for speeding up recovery rate. I want to be able to climb when the weather’s good, and not have to wait 3 days for my body to catch up!!
Just saw the video of Le Denmat in La Super Prestat, I guess for him the answer is that it doesn't matter at all haha. (Link : https://vimeo.com/162671061)
I wouldn't had put it into Morpho since I'm only 1,62 cm and I did it but it's obviously easier if you're taller (I do agree).
I've seen this boulder is became a 7a in bleau.info...
Video starts 01:03
video starts 00:24
Instagram - License_to_climb - Bouldering since 201700:03 Bali Balan, 6B, Apremont EnversVideo starts 00:03
Instagram - License_to_climb - Bouldering since 2017Video starts 00:37
Instagram - License_to_climb - Bouldering since 2017I found this quite a bit harder than Surf Betty because I couldn't keep my feet on with my hands on the top. Taller folk seem to find it somewhat easier. The beta I used makes up for the difficulty,
Ok, so I'm biased because I opened this line, but it is so much fun for someone of just my height!! Sit start to the right of the wave, matched in a pocket, and avoiding the pedestal. Move out to a
I see this just now! Tried close contact but started to rain. Next time!
I am short, not terribly bold, and nearly always climb on my own, feel free to look at my list of ascents for ideas, but I really recommend a day at Drei Zinnen on Close contact and Bifurcation :-)