48°26'29.1"N 2°41'03.4"E
https://maps.google.com?q=48.4414192,2.6842871&hl=en-GB&gl=uk
This problem is trickier than it looks, but given the right balance of ingenuity and perseverance, it is a thoroughly satisfying send! Sit start under the left angle, make a strong move into a groove
A long traverse on decent holds involves a few complicated moves over a butt-dragging rock. Do-able without a spotter if you don't mind rolling off the rock a few times. Thoroughly engaging, and wor
You need to use only the slopers for the top out. The big hole/jug/sidepull up there is out. That makes the top trickier and cruxier :)
Je n'ai pas la fin parce que je préfère une parade à la vidéo mais je partage le debut qui est la partie dure selon moi.
Location: 48°20'09.8"N 2°40'25.6"E
https://goo.gl/maps/MkpDpELEscrRWXBc8
Location: 48°20'09.8"N 2°40'25.6"E
https://goo.gl/maps/MkpDpELEscrRWXBc8
Jolie ligne à la roche d'Hercule dans le toit, qui demande du gainage au move dynamique ????
This adds a sitstart to a simply beautiful piece of rock. The first move is tricky if you're short, but the placement of the right foot makes a lot of difference. The pendulum moves with the feet ar
Jolie petite traversée avec des trous. Parfait pour une séance en solo. Un crash suffit, les 2 mouvements à caler sont au début. L’accès le plus simple est par la route de Barbizon à Fontainebleau.
Beautiful traverse with mostly slopers, where the first few moves are definitely the hardest. Finish on the left of the nose with a very doable mantle into a victory jug
I didn’t start on the left but also didn’t use the undercling, but hopped straight to the top instead. Who knows if that’s correct? ;)
Le 1er mouvement est morpho, le reste est 5 étoiles! Pour la méthode, j'ai mis un talon gauche pour croiser sur la bonne règle main gauche et ensuite sortir.
Hey, I have to raise the question again: On Bleau.info it says “start without the big pocket right hand”. I started pretty much like Hanna here did and I felt the first move was hard and getting out o
An unusual problem for Fontainebleau, this climbs a low roof on sharp pockets. Creative insertion of toes, and good core strength definitely help!
A low but interesting 3D problem that benefits from foot locks and toe hooks. It was originally thought to be a dyno problem, but shorties can technique the hell out of it and make it super cool!!
A super fun upside down problem that lends itself to all manner of toe and heel-hookerie on pockets through a roof. (just make sure your toe doesn't get stuck in the hole !! )
Good to know! It looks like a fun climb and you did a great job on it. Just shared what’s on bleau.info for informational purposes :)
I have been there in March 2022, and even heavier climbers than me climbed on the block, but we didn't notice any movement. Only there was a sound of two big trees knocking when moving against each ot
Has anyone done this recently? Info on 27Crags and bleau.info is different. The low traverse is suuuuper low, I don’t have any beta for it. Ideas?!
Please be aware of the following warning about this boulder on bleau.info: “Caution (April 2019) : some climbers have reported that the boulder is slightly moving. Be very careful if you try it and te
I found this harder and more terrifying than it probably "should" be. The landing is intimidating.
Mid-height arete just off trail between Isatis and Cuisinaire. In my memory it's a bit Morpho with the business at the top. Appealing line to try. Apparently there is a right version now with a goo
Cool, kinda techy compression and not too high. Good flat landing. Video is Brazil from 2011 (before break). Send starting at 1:07 I think it's correctly linked to this start time)
some good crimps in a sort of cave, then beautiful turtleback
Low compressy slopey problem. Decent landing. Fun and often overlooked but worth checking out. The business is in the bottom/middle.
This is an all time line. Tall with a nice flat landing. Good with a spot since the business is midway up. Kinda techy arete with thin holds on face leads to a decent hold at the transition. From here
One of the best compression lines anywhere, though a bit Morpho. Trust the squeeze and then figure out how to top out. Good landing but spot is helpful. Try not to step right at the top and instead go
So thin and cool and then committing near the top. A glorious line that in my experience suited me better than my male companions.
Thin committing slab. Start as low as you can and do your best to stand up and then keep standing up til you get there, working up bad feet and a seam that feels harder than you want it to. Good flat
A bit of a reachy start if you're short, but take an undercut and a sidepull on the left and make a big move to the right. Climb using heel hooks on both sides, and marginal slopey crimps in compress
Very approachable start with a committing reach move high up. Fairly flat landing but you want a pad stack and spot to deal with the top out.
Amazing bright orange slab. A bit delicate and can feel reachy but also can be easier if you keep on a little longer and top out higher. Really nice. Landing slopes down to the side so need pads and a
Surprisingly fun and just a few moves. Not too tall.
Step up to begin, then you'll find a nice crimp for your right hand, good hold for your left next to the lighter part of the rock. Nice, quick line
Sneaky start, followed by some balance moves along the arrete. I had to adjust the right foot to reach the good hold on top which wasn't necessary for the taller guys. Turned out to be the hardest mov
This is one of those lines that sucks you in. You'll get up to the slopers on your first go, and they don't even feel that bad at first. But the mantle is crazy hard no matter how you go at it (and
It’s worth checking this video on YouTube, even though it’s not a girl climbing. Patch has some beta that works for folks with legs too short to reach the high heel sweet-spot. This is the way I did
This problem has it all. A pinchy sit start, a tiny hole for your toe, a mono pocket to pull, two slopers, two crimps, a mantle found in an arête/wall/slab combined in one small boulder.
The line should work great as a sit start too, even though it’s defined as a stand from the higher holds. Moving to the right and down from there can prove tricky - there’s a reachy way and another wa
First move is easier if you're tall, but can be done by shorties using a couple of terrible crimps in opposition. Pulling the roof, it helps to be small, so it all works out in the end.
Thank you so much Josie @shortbleaubeta for the best of the photos ????.
Great Boulder with a cool cross over move. A high heel on the arête makes going for the slot much easier for short people. I’m 5 Foot 1” and it worked really well for me.
Great little problem well worth a try. I’m 5 foot 1” so works for the shorter person.
Beautiful slab to improve your footwork
Some edges and a mantle. What more does a girl want?!
Crimpy traverse moves followed by a high slab. The end is tricky if you are short because you need to palm your right hand using a left to hook around the arete to be able to reach the top
This boulder has amazing moves and looks stunning. If you first look at it you might think it is a bit high. The end holds are jugs though, so no need to be scarred!
Deserves it’s name. This boulder is stunning! The mantle feels a bit expo because there is a rock right behind it. Make sure to bring a spotter!
Dropped pin
Near 77300 Fontainebleau
https://goo.gl/maps/DjxTJqQRtikHzqtTA
Pour le départ assis, il est plus facile de coincer son pied gauche dans la grosse fissure. J'étais trop petite pour avoir et les prises mains et le coincement donc j'ai commencé pied droit sur un gra
Lovely little sit-start to a pocketed belly
If you have short arms, this problems looks impossibly wide at first glance. But you can outsmart the powerful moves with some sneaky footwork making this problem an enjoyable entry-level 7a.
There are three Mandarins, but this is the one everybody actually does. Its original name was probably "you did [Mandarin (sans convention)|https://bettybeta.com/bouldering/fontainebleau/roche-aux-oi
Très beau bloc, haut avec un crux à bien optimiser en valorisant une petite croûte droite ensuite il faut envoyer en léger dyno pour aller chercher une boîte au lettre plutôt bonne. Si vous aimez les
A cool fingery overhang with a good flat landing and a fun mantle to top it out. Needs as much technique as it does strength.
Superbe bloc très haut. Crux au 3/4 du bloc pour les petits bien s'étendre ??
Fun and fresh climb on fiddly crimps with one big move to a proper jug. Good footwork is key on this one. Really worth a try!
Parking ... There is a bit of an issue with the regular parking space. Officially it is closed. People do still park there, but there is a slim chance you could get a ticket. If you do risk it, ple
There is a tiny left foot that helped me to barely reach, then get the balance to match.
I could do the "taller-person" beta, with a left heel and then move up the left hand. Required my fullbody extension, then get the balance to match. Kind of nice move when sticking it.
Most beta videos on the web are done with 2 big moves, which I can't do. I found another beta https://www.instagram.com/p/CbZXB2ljjwq/
Il y a une méthode pour petits avec un coincement de genou droit.
Quelqu'un aurait une méthode pour quelqu'un qui fait moins d'1m60 ? Je n'arrive pas à envoyer la main droite en haut et garder les pieds en même temps. J'ai essayé en les montant au plus haut ou en me
I think we do have to put it lower than taller fellows. There is a place where it holds, it's smiring a bit. I posted a video I think you can see where I put it. Good luck next time :)
La traversée du bas ne rajoute pas grand chose à la difficulté et rend l'escalade presque pénible parce qu'on doit rester accroupi et qu'on ne peut pas tendre les bras si on ne veut pas toucher le sol
Un bon bloc pour les brutes de la poutre qui n'y verront que du feu! Gooooooo!!!!
Ce bloc n'est pas un incontournable de la foret, il est (de mon point de vue) difficile pour la cotation et un peu morpho. Plus facile pour les grands, pour sûr. En plus il est un peu loin de tout...
Allez y avec beaucoup de pads pour se sentir en sécurité. Le crux est le réta.
Petit tip méthode ( spoiler alert :P ) : je mets mon pieds droit sur la prise noire du bas et pas le pied gauche comme
c'est plutôt joli mais se fait mieux avec une parade.
c'est loin du parking, c'est pas très joli, je ne recommende pas.
Hey! I’m Janna and I’m on the way home from a lovely time in Font. I’m wondering if there’s a good spot for my right heel hook at the top of graviton. My slightly taller friends seemed to talk about g
Could only ever barely grab the undercling! So I pushed super hard with my fight foot in order to make the undercling more level with my face and then I was able to go for the little jug/sidepull - an
https://youtube.com/shorts/ykU-p6RtS_o?feature=share
Another vidéo
The photo is from my friend Felix, I like it because it shows where to take the hold!
Hello! Question-- how are you guys (ladies) releasing your right toe so easily? Is it the left toe placement that is really good? I was trying this and could not release the right toe at all-- and loo
Have you though Helen? I would loooove to go try this??.. hint hint