If you cannot reach the crimp before the dihedral, there is still a way!
Fun boulder for all toe-hook loving bettys with strong and flexible hip flexors!
Shorties (like me at 163 cm) might need to deploy some extra hand movements to gain the good left slot and the right hand sloper to set up the high heel, but overall this climb favours crimp and heel
Nice and challenging 5+ Boulder (No. 26 of the red circuit), located close to the Éclipse/L'Autre Toit block (slightly north, north-east). Starting with two fairly good underclings in the low roof to
Un super mouvement avec une inversée MG qui se déclenche en dynamique et qui se termine stat.
La Myosine is a really fun, compact boulder problem with some powerful moves. It’s a bit hidden in the first part of the sector, but it’s just of the main path to the namesakes of this area.
Nice boulder problem located at the lower left part of the sector, the top is not very high. Powerful move at the start and the rest is quite straight forward. Different Betas for the first move (e.g.
Very hard for me. I grade it 6C, at the end of my video is the hard move in isolation, more beautifully climbed, but I was too tired. Just want to say it's possible to do it not as desperate as my cli
This boulder is low and has little moves. That's why the moves are quite hard! A far move to the last hold needs some explosive power.
Great slab with an interesting pushing move in the lower part and a rather dynamic move to the edge (for shorties).
La version 7c démarre des règles du fond, traverse sur le rail à droite et remonte en utilisant l'écaille.
Super crimpy with a powerful stab to the undercut of small feet throughout. Suitable for all heights with small moves.
Classic crimpy moves with a comfortable finish. Doable alone with one pad.
Punchy start with a crimpy finish. Super satisfying moves.
Satisfying but surprisingly physical 3D moves on this short and sweet climb. The starting feed take a while to dry given their softer texture so best to climb only after multiple dry low humidity days
Punchy start moves into a satisfying finish. Doable with one pad solo.
Pinchy and crimpy combo with a bit of a commiting roll over with the rock behind. Recommend a pad on the rock but otherwise fairly secure.
Short but satisfying crimpy line with lots of options for hands and feet to suit all heights and shapes. Landing initially looks intimidation but is fine with one or two pads
Easier but nice version of L'Isoloir (assis). A little annoying with the rock to the left but the moves are great. The last moves on the top feels like a reward!
Sitting start on the right of the block which may be a little stretched if you're super short. (use a thick pad). Fun moves traversing left on slopers and pockets, leads to a hanging foot-jam rest.
I have no idea if that’s what you’re supposed to do but I sure was fun ! I mantle with my left foot on the big step, then turn and grab the holds on the left to exit as said in bleau info !
Popular problem just off the path at the start of the area, it may be easier for the short to do this method than the 7a variant with the right hand arete. Stand start with hands lower than seems obv
If you ever get tired of dicey moves way up in the sky over dicey landings, where a tiny foot slip will land you in the hospital, come check this line out. It's a nice low lip traverse on slopers,
Fun little rising crack line in a quick-drying area of Gorge aux Chats, although the start holds may seem a little. Start low down in the crack, where it forms a side-pull, and follow the good holds
Easy moves to start with, up to the bigger move to the crimp. I found a small pocket/undercling on the left side of the jug that you normally use for the big move to the crimp (not the one you use lat
Sit start of blue 34. Quite powerful in the lower part, followed by a cool dynamic move. It's fun! There‘s also an option of topping out further to the left.
Morpho! Dropknee is the key to reach the highest Sloper.
Update bleau.info (April 2024): The starting hold is about to break off, please do not try this boulder.
Pockets and jugs, interspersed with still more pockets and jugs. Why can't it always be this much fun?
start with left hand on undercling and right hand on slopper. Left foot goes right next to your left hand, then reach for the excellent hold straight ahead of you (enough space for both hands, see vid
Right Toehook for the start is key to reach out for the best sloper for the right Hand. The right foothold for the move to the next to Sloper is much better than it seems!
If you like kneebars and footjams, this is your line! This funky boulder has a sit start followed by a kneebar to help your hands up the crack. After that you jam your feet above your had to get out o
It feels impossible to get your butt off the ground, but when you push your hips into the wall, you get tension on both legs and stand very securely in the position to reach further.
Not sure if I (Stef) climbed it too much to the right, but that way does not involve the big move all the boys do in bleau.info ;)
Cool line! I could use a right kneebar to stretch out to the dish - it's definitely harder if you are too short to do so..
It would be good to avoid using the sandy hold just after the start to prevent the broken hold from further eroding
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!
Brilliant feature - make sure to use a right heel to take weight off for the middle moves.
Super fun climb - the holds are positive at the top - just have to be precise with your movement to get there.
Brilliant line - great introduction to technical slab climbing in Fontainebleau - a must do!
For the stand start (7a) I used a left heel to make the transition in the opening moves easier - it felt like it fit me quite well to do this, I'm 167 cm in height and ape. Then reasonably good holds
I had many desperate attempts on the mantle, before figuring out I could place my left toe on the edge. I uploaded a video of it, maybe someone will find it useful :)
hello there,
could you please let me know where to find Bleautiful? last time I was looking for it in Cuvier Merveille, unfortunately without any success :(
looking forward to receiving some clues
I really appreciate your effort, time and energy to publish these articles and to raise awareness of topics like a sustainable climbing culture around Fontainebleau. I always liked the pro-active appr
Sympa cet article qui essaie de décrire ce que signifie le grès humide au lieu de juste critiquer les grimpeurs qui cassent des prises . Je rejoins entièrement ton analyse sur le fait que le grès d'ap
I booked a trip to Fontainebleau for October and November but had to cancel last minute due to a climbing injury. If you are planning a visit during that time, please consider this sweet Airbnb in Arb
Hiya Heather, there is a Betty meet-up planned for October 14 and November 19, so do join us if you’re around. Are you travelling on your own or do you have a crew?
Hi all, I'm planning a trip to Fontainebleau in November for a few weeks. I was wondering if there is a bit of a community there/ anyone also planning a trip in November that I could team up with for
According to bleau.info the 6c boulder is to the left of what's shown in the video. The variant in the video is an easier variant.
Hahaha, I opened this post thinking it was about a boulder called "Found Birkenstock" and pondered on the "beta" for a second before I realized... :D
There's a video of this by Michelle on YouTube: https://youtu.be/dtH4NwsnGNs
Beautiful line. Did this boulder following a straight line without using the bucket on the left, makes the line very nice/pretty to climb.
When you have your left hand on the sloper just before the t
A foot match on the crescent out right allows a high heel and its pretty much over. Not sure about the exit, maybe I should have carried on straight up rather than going slightly right.
Hi Maja, agreed with Helen.
One simple pad is enough for this block. Cheers
Hi Maja, in my opinion you don’t get to stack pads for foot holds. It’s definitely a grey area stacking pads anyway, but for me I feel reaching hand holds is legit because it’s impossible without. I
Ethics question/discussion: does going straight into the heel hook via a stacked pad count as a tick? On the one hand only the starting holds are defined on bleau.info and there's public ascents start
Topo says to start with the lowest two crimps. So I started with my left hand on the smallest crimp and the right one on the good one. I found the move harder in that way.
Hello! I really would like to come to this -- I live in Paris and want to take the RER and a bike to get there, and go back in the evening. Do you have more details about where and when to meet on the
I’m at the campsite you suggested :) it’s so beautiful I thought I’ll stay for the night to get some rest and see what’s what in the morning :)
Thanks Helen :)
Hiya, we are still meeting up to talk about opening new boulders. It’s going to be a bit wet, so I’m not sure how many will come, but I’ll be there between 11am and 12.
Hi Helen, just seen the site that tomorrow is cancelled and the weathers not looking good for the rest of the week :( probably gonna head to the coast if that’s the case hey. But thank you again for g