Magnifique bloc pour l’été avec un dernier mouvement impressionnant et magique quand ça tient enfin. Il est préférable d’être souple pour ce bloc, donc go les filles! Minimum 2 crashs et 1 pareur.
Stand start on the left rock, traverse to the right and exit in Moon Dog pedestal is allowed*
Stand start, don't use the long holds on the right side
This small boulder is a lot of fun to climb. It sitstarts in a pit, which might feel a bit cramped when you are tall. Fun mantle to stand up.
Really a boulder that suits the shorties :-) as you have to watch out not to touch the ground on the beginning traverse. Then one bigger move onto good holds and out.
Fun little roof climb! The crux is holding the big sloper with your right hand and then going up, up, up with your left.
Sit start with your left foot tucked under the boulder. Quickly bring your right heel up and grab with your right hand. Move up on good holds to reach "Le Tiroir" (standing position). Make sure to gra
Another true font boulder with pretty cool moves! Engage the shoulders for the slopery upper sequence, a lot of tension required ;) Definitely harder if you lose the right foot when moving up into t
La version 7b de ce bloc passe sous le toit sans utiliser les prises du haut comme dans certaines videos sur bleau.info.
Très jolie bloc à méthode. De très belles prises et beaucoup de talons et pointes
A fun line worth trying! Starting description from bleau.info: "Crouching start under the overhang with the hole and a sidepull and exit on the prow."
A very beautiful line that has suffered from its fame (e.g. polished, broken holds) - yet is still worth climbing. A range of powerful moves with tricky foot beta that looks different from what it act
The crux of the route is definitely to find a bodyposition that allows you to not only reach but also make use of the undercling for the right hand. We had fun experimenting and trying different thing
Be careful not to step on the ancient carvings on the big pedestal!
Great line on an isolated block with great views. Starts with good holds, traversing right the holds become smaller. Precise left heels can help to move to the right arete and up from there.
Hi Helen!
Thanks for the informative post. I would add that it is worthwile to start following the forecast days leading up to the trip, and take a look at reports of actual weather (meteoblue allo
Hey everyone,
my first post pregnancy Fontainebleau Trip with my daughter (around 8 months then) is coming up and I was wondering, if anyone has some tips for me. I have heard, that the processionary
This bloc is not often dry. It needs a couple of days without rain to do it, nice line.
Le bloc a été ouvert par mon voisin, c'est une sorte de petite boule avec une presse. Preferez les jours froids pour y aller car c'est mieux de faire le haut si ça colle...
Heel-toe cam matched with right hand from the start, and then going right hand first did it for me as well!
Very hard for me. I grade it 6C, at the end of my video is the hard move in isolation, more beautifully climbed, but I was too tired. Just want to say it's possible to do it not as desperate as my cli
La version 7c démarre des règles du fond, traverse sur le rail à droite et remonte en utilisant l'écaille.
Update bleau.info (April 2024): The starting hold is about to break off, please do not try this boulder.
It feels impossible to get your butt off the ground, but when you push your hips into the wall, you get tension on both legs and stand very securely in the position to reach further.
Not sure if I (Stef) climbed it too much to the right, but that way does not involve the big move all the boys do in bleau.info ;)
Cool line! I could use a right kneebar to stretch out to the dish - it's definitely harder if you are too short to do so..
It would be good to avoid using the sandy hold just after the start to prevent the broken hold from further eroding
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!
Brilliant feature - make sure to use a right heel to take weight off for the middle moves.
Super fun climb - the holds are positive at the top - just have to be precise with your movement to get there.
Brilliant line - great introduction to technical slab climbing in Fontainebleau - a must do!
For the stand start (7a) I used a left heel to make the transition in the opening moves easier - it felt like it fit me quite well to do this, I'm 167 cm in height and ape. Then reasonably good holds
I had many desperate attempts on the mantle, before figuring out I could place my left toe on the edge. I uploaded a video of it, maybe someone will find it useful :)
hello there,
could you please let me know where to find Bleautiful? last time I was looking for it in Cuvier Merveille, unfortunately without any success :(
looking forward to receiving some clues
I really appreciate your effort, time and energy to publish these articles and to raise awareness of topics like a sustainable climbing culture around Fontainebleau. I always liked the pro-active appr
Sympa cet article qui essaie de décrire ce que signifie le grès humide au lieu de juste critiquer les grimpeurs qui cassent des prises . Je rejoins entièrement ton analyse sur le fait que le grès d'ap
I booked a trip to Fontainebleau for October and November but had to cancel last minute due to a climbing injury. If you are planning a visit during that time, please consider this sweet Airbnb in Arb
Hiya Heather, there is a Betty meet-up planned for October 14 and November 19, so do join us if you’re around. Are you travelling on your own or do you have a crew?
Hi all, I'm planning a trip to Fontainebleau in November for a few weeks. I was wondering if there is a bit of a community there/ anyone also planning a trip in November that I could team up with for
According to bleau.info the 6c boulder is to the left of what's shown in the video. The variant in the video is an easier variant.
Hahaha, I opened this post thinking it was about a boulder called "Found Birkenstock" and pondered on the "beta" for a second before I realized... :D
There's a video of this by Michelle on YouTube: https://youtu.be/dtH4NwsnGNs
Beautiful line. Did this boulder following a straight line without using the bucket on the left, makes the line very nice/pretty to climb.
When you have your left hand on the sloper just before the t
A foot match on the crescent out right allows a high heel and its pretty much over. Not sure about the exit, maybe I should have carried on straight up rather than going slightly right.
Hi Maja, agreed with Helen.
One simple pad is enough for this block. Cheers
Hi Maja, in my opinion you don’t get to stack pads for foot holds. It’s definitely a grey area stacking pads anyway, but for me I feel reaching hand holds is legit because it’s impossible without. I
Ethics question/discussion: does going straight into the heel hook via a stacked pad count as a tick? On the one hand only the starting holds are defined on bleau.info and there's public ascents start