Petit toit avec des coincements de pieds et une fin plus physique. Je n’ai pas réussi la méthode avec la pointe gauche qui a l’air de rendre la fin moins physique. Bloc parfait quand on est seule.
Sit start with left hand on side pull low down on the left side of arrete. Follow arrete all the way around the right corner. Top out to the right on arrete on good holds.
Sit start on the left under the Fesse (butt), traverse under the Nez (nose), and exit on the right with a mantle.
Its mostly compression boulder with a sloppy holds and with a cool technical finish.
A fun boulder situated on the edge of the sector. It contains a couple of variations on it, this is the right exit version. Some flexibility is required to throw your heel on top of the boulder.
A funny little belly-prow with some pretty cool moves. Sit start matched on the slanting jug to the left, and work your way over the bulge.
Little one move boulder. Just get up! There are some small crimps to look for on top to help you wiggle your way up.
Sit at the right hand side of the obvious ledge and climb it to the left. At the jugs you need to make a big move up right to the lip. It's not as far as it looks! Great practice for a dynamic move
Seriously? 6b+? Well maybe when you know the beta? The description on Bleau.info says harder for the tall, which sounds fun in a perverse way, until you try it, and realise it's also pretty tricky if
This is a super line, and the name does not do it justice. The block looks like a breaching shark and you climb up its teeth!! It is a sitstart, but the first moves are not the crux. The main diffi
This block has several lines on it, so lots of variations to chose! The first dynamic move took me many tries to stick, because it’s almost at the limit of my reach. For taller climbers this move is a
A fun traverse on sandy jugs that ends in a tricky mantle.
Fun mantle that takes a little tweaking. It's 6a once you have the right beta, but the exact foot and finger positions make a difference.
Tricky little slab that saves some difficulty for the very last move! Believe in those feet!!
Fantastic little problem involving a balancy undercut move on a slab! Enjoy !!
Simply stunning line that lures you in with a nice easy arete, but YIKES!! The last move takes some steel nerves if you are short!
We decided to try this yesterday. It seemed sturdy, but as my (tall but slim) husband made his way up the big slopers out right the boulder definitely moved. It was so slight that he didn’t feel it, b
This is a super fun 6c+ although the description of the start is difficult to distinguish from the 7b version. Sit start on the left hand end of a crack line under the roof. Traverse to the right an
A challenging sit or squat start with some tricky moves up an overhanging arete, then powerful dynamic moves to a fun top out. It is a bit reachy but smaller climbers may find higher feet and intermed
Very un-Bleau like boulder. Small crimps and compact heels make this problem suitable for shorter climbers. The secret is to pinky-wrap the peanut hold. The cave stays cool, so it's also doable in war
While the original line finishes straight up, this version ends to the left and avoids the most morpho (and the hardest) move of the original climb. Still a must do!
I have no idea if that’s what you’re supposed to do but I sure was fun ! I mantle with my left foot on the big step, then turn and grab the holds on the left to exit as said in bleau info !
Powerful & sustained moves on positive incut edges. High ball (but the crux is low). Delicious to climb.
Low compressy slopey problem. Decent landing. Fun and often overlooked but worth checking out. The business is in the bottom/middle.
An interesting puzzle that nobody seems to climb the same way. Choose your weapons from kneebars to heelhooks, undercuts and laybacks. Sitstart matched on a tufa-like rail, make a big move up and ri
Tricky sitstart, tough on the left fingers. Nice Boulder!
Another version. I traversed low and did a dyno-mantle onto the slab. Super fun!
I did this at the Betty meet up in October. We all used different holds to top it out- some went straight up, I moved left because I like those layback moves. I don’t think it changes the grade but th
Managed to avoid the second crimp and go for the top by getting the left foot in whilst using the crack.
Great slab with an interesting pushing move in the lower part and a rather dynamic move to the edge (for shorties).
This overhanging block has a couple of nice lines, but this is my favorite! This beauty starts with toehooks, followed by a lock off move from a heel hook. This boulder is worth a try if you are in th
Looks pretty straightforward, sitting there right on the trail. Easy to pad out, no bad fall potential. Those slopers do look a bit slippery but really, how hard can it be? Narrator: *It was n
Un super mouvement dynamique au début. Et une jolie traversée pas très difficile ensuite. Or, if you don't like to be too dynamic, use foot jams and toe hangs all round ... Just one super fun bould
After finding a way to move my right foot closer to the left I could send it. Video beta -> https://www.instagram.com/p/CkGrgKLDy3a/
I did the first move in another way than most climbers, thats why I added my video (which is not yet uploaded, you can watch it here in the meantime): https://youtube.com/shorts/9VmQI81Hv_o).
I don
Squat start under a low roof, moving up on crimps, a finger jam, and slopers to a fun top out. Small fingers and flexibility are a plus.
Tall people make a big move from the left big hold on the arête to the jug on the right arête. For short it’s easier to make one move up with your left hand first before going to the jug.
The problem is a bit tall but the top out is safe in my opinion. I didn't use the right arete for the last move to reach the top hold cause I can't reach.
Standing start (or jump if you’re really short) at the left corner, and exit with a mantle as for point of view
Petits are in the title, but I think it was maybe because the FA felt sorry for anyone with short arms on this problem. The regular variant doesn't really work if you are less than 1m60, but a really
Rising ramp traverse that has an explosive move at the top if you're short, but the mantle benefits from flexible hips.
Sit start to the left of the tree and make a big move up and right to the arete. Traverse the arete to the left and exit on the point. Watch out for those slopers at the top if it's sunny!
Awesome splitter crack that takes both hands and feet. Sit start way back in the hole, and get stuck in! This line is so much harder for the small, because the crack is a little oversized, and we ne
An awesome jamming crack line, hidden in plain sight under the block behind La Memel. This on is slightly easier if you are small, because the exit is a bit tight.
I could not keep the feet with two hands on, taking the swing on the catch. https://www.instagram.com/p/CbZZZufj9by/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
48°26'04.6"N 2°37'03.0"E
https://goo.gl/maps/DixtZTnie9wb8kvHA
48°26'04.6"N 2°37'03.0"E
https://goo.gl/maps/DixtZTnie9wb8kvHA
Hello, can anyone tell me what the correct start is for this problem versus the droite-assiss?
My height and ape make a sitstart Impossible without stacking pads. I feel like not doing one doesn't change the difficulty, what do you girls think?
Since I'm not that tall, I needed to sort my feet quite some and
add extra moves. Super cool line!
Small moves on good edges and one explosive pop to the lip. The hard part is not dabbing the rock behind during the mantle. Short legs are an advantage here
The mantle was tricky for 7a+. There's a lot of possibilities, but really only one way that works. It did take some time to figure it out
Il est tout à fait possible de caler un talon droit dans le trou et de croiser main gauche en inversé dans ce même trou. Cela permet daller chercher la main droite de manière statique ??
A beautiful sequence of crimpy holds!
The main point for me was to keep my core and body position in control.
Very nice dyno!! it's my anti style but was able to top it :) I am 1m70 so definitely doable for shorter people!
48°26'29.1"N 2°41'03.4"E
https://maps.google.com?q=48.4414192,2.6842871&hl=en-GB&gl=uk
You need to use only the slopers for the top out. The big hole/jug/sidepull up there is out. That makes the top trickier and cruxier :)
Location: 48°20'09.8"N 2°40'25.6"E
https://goo.gl/maps/MkpDpELEscrRWXBc8
Location: 48°20'09.8"N 2°40'25.6"E
https://goo.gl/maps/MkpDpELEscrRWXBc8
I didn’t start on the left but also didn’t use the undercling, but hopped straight to the top instead. Who knows if that’s correct? ;)
Le 1er mouvement est morpho, le reste est 5 étoiles! Pour la méthode, j'ai mis un talon gauche pour croiser sur la bonne règle main gauche et ensuite sortir.
Hey, I have to raise the question again: On Bleau.info it says “start without the big pocket right hand”. I started pretty much like Hanna here did and I felt the first move was hard and getting out o
Good to know! It looks like a fun climb and you did a great job on it. Just shared what’s on bleau.info for informational purposes :)
I have been there in March 2022, and even heavier climbers than me climbed on the block, but we didn't notice any movement. Only there was a sound of two big trees knocking when moving against each ot
Has anyone done this recently? Info on 27Crags and bleau.info is different. The low traverse is suuuuper low, I don’t have any beta for it. Ideas?!
Please be aware of the following warning about this boulder on bleau.info: “Caution (April 2019) : some climbers have reported that the boulder is slightly moving. Be very careful if you try it and te
I found this harder and more terrifying than it probably "should" be. The landing is intimidating.
It’s worth checking this video on YouTube, even though it’s not a girl climbing. Patch has some beta that works for folks with legs too short to reach the high heel sweet-spot. This is the way I did
Thank you so much Josie @shortbleaubeta for the best of the photos ????.
Great little problem well worth a try. I’m 5 foot 1” so works for the shorter person.
Dropped pin
Near 77300 Fontainebleau
https://goo.gl/maps/DjxTJqQRtikHzqtTA
Parking ... There is a bit of an issue with the regular parking space. Officially it is closed. People do still park there, but there is a slim chance you could get a ticket. If you do risk it, ple