Red Nr. 8. Dynamic move to the top, gets harder the shorter you are. Definitely not a 6a for shorties, but nice and flowy, good landing. Leaving the side pull out and jumping from the under cling mak
Fun little slab. Great practice for Science Friction.
Valle´e Chaude is a beautiful, quiet and spread out area with some great lines. Nice place to visit on a crowded weekend day . The crux of this low ball is the far move up. The foot and heel placement
A fun boulder situated on the edge of the sector. It contains a couple of variations on it, this is the right exit version. Some flexibility is required to throw your heel on top of the boulder.
Easier but nice version of L'Isoloir (assis). A little annoying with the rock to the left but the moves are great. The last moves on the top feels like a reward!
It looks so easy when you're standing in front of it. Nice slopers with plenty of texture that shouldn't be any problem to hang on to. But the thing about short 7a's is that they still have to fit
If you are comfortable with a heelhook on the right (big hold), you will be able to reach the crimp rather statically. Otherwise just go for it :) Once you've done the 6c definitely try the 7a version
The prow just left of Plat au Nez. Bleau.info says to start with a right hand crimp and a left hand pocket, but I did the opposite- hands crossed, right in the pocket and left on the crimp- so you hav
Nice little problem that looks morpho but actually isn't if you rock over your left foot enough. Exit through the right slab not the easier left one. Feels a bit soft for the grade, but might depend a
A challenging sit or squat start with some tricky moves up an overhanging arete, then powerful dynamic moves to a fun top out. It is a bit reachy but smaller climbers may find higher feet and intermed
An interesting puzzle that nobody seems to climb the same way. Choose your weapons from kneebars to heelhooks, undercuts and laybacks. Sitstart matched on a tufa-like rail, make a big move up and ri
Delicate slab climbing in a tranquil location
This is a super fun 6c+ although the description of the start is difficult to distinguish from the 7b version. Sit start on the left hand end of a crack line under the roof. Traverse to the right an
Tricky sitstart, tough on the left fingers. Nice Boulder!
Sit start to the left of the tree and make a big move up and right to the arete. Traverse the arete to the left and exit on the point. Watch out for those slopers at the top if it's sunny!
Everybody tries the sit start to this problem because it gets a 7a. That's a shame because they then spend a ton of time and effort thrutching about on the starting holds and often never even make it
A great steep boulder with pockets,crimps and jugs, with different lines from 6a to 7b this boulder lays in a shady place down the hill on the back of buddha. As it is on the smaller side it is a gre
Pockets and jugs, interspersed with still more pockets and jugs. Why can't it always be this much fun?
A fun line on the block just below the Napoleon boulder.
Now called Penchant Mortel (assis) on Bleau.info
Cool 6a boulder that starts with a big move to good holds that you don't see to well. It is a bit deadpoint situation you will find yourself in.
This is a prime line in the area that looks like a walk in the park but ends up being quite the satisfactory little struggle :) The beginning is straightforward with a heelhook here and there, after w
Possibly the best slopers in the entire forest. Such a satisfying line. Seek it out!
I loved the look of the crazy shaped rock and it was a pleasure to climb it! You start squatting down on the big slopey foothold and walk your way up. After you will make your way to the top hold with
What a super classic! Feels very powerful on huge underclings until you unlock the sneaky kneebars in the steep bit. In the upper part it is all about trusting your right foot ;)
Technical boulder that requires tension throughout and some cool compression moves! Top out can feel reachy for betties the first time you try it, but by using the pocket in the middle to get around t
A technical slab with good foot holds and sharp crimps!
Starts far right and traverses to the top-out of Vent Couvert (raccourci).
A classic boulder in a classic area that involves one longer committing move out right.
What's not to love? A fun rounded-yet-juggy rail to traverse across just a few feet above a flat sandy landing right in the center of the perfect picnic spot with lots of fun, easy problems around it
A do-able, but burly 7a+, this is often a first in the grade, but it doesn't suit everyone. Shorties have an easier time with the bunched up start, but get paid back with a long reach getting to the
Seems reachy but there is a way around for short climbers, which is kinda cool, too.
There are three boulders, this is the one on the left side
Hey everyone,
my first post pregnancy Fontainebleau Trip with my daughter (around 8 months then) is coming up and I was wondering, if anyone has some tips for me. I have heard, that the processionary
Short crimpy boulder with some tension needed. Climbs beatifully.
This mini problem is packed with techniques and options: knee bar, heel hooks and a knee drop.
This bloc is not often dry. It needs a couple of days without rain to do it, nice line.
Le bloc a été ouvert par mon voisin, c'est une sorte de petite boule avec une presse. Preferez les jours froids pour y aller car c'est mieux de faire le haut si ça colle...
Heel-toe cam matched with right hand from the start, and then going right hand first did it for me as well!
Very hard for me. I grade it 6C, at the end of my video is the hard move in isolation, more beautifully climbed, but I was too tired. Just want to say it's possible to do it not as desperate as my cli
La version 7c démarre des règles du fond, traverse sur le rail à droite et remonte en utilisant l'écaille.
Update bleau.info (April 2024): The starting hold is about to break off, please do not try this boulder.
It feels impossible to get your butt off the ground, but when you push your hips into the wall, you get tension on both legs and stand very securely in the position to reach further.
Not sure if I (Stef) climbed it too much to the right, but that way does not involve the big move all the boys do in bleau.info ;)
Cool line! I could use a right kneebar to stretch out to the dish - it's definitely harder if you are too short to do so..
It would be good to avoid using the sandy hold just after the start to prevent the broken hold from further eroding
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!
Brilliant feature - make sure to use a right heel to take weight off for the middle moves.
Super fun climb - the holds are positive at the top - just have to be precise with your movement to get there.
Brilliant line - great introduction to technical slab climbing in Fontainebleau - a must do!
For the stand start (7a) I used a left heel to make the transition in the opening moves easier - it felt like it fit me quite well to do this, I'm 167 cm in height and ape. Then reasonably good holds
I had many desperate attempts on the mantle, before figuring out I could place my left toe on the edge. I uploaded a video of it, maybe someone will find it useful :)
hello there,
could you please let me know where to find Bleautiful? last time I was looking for it in Cuvier Merveille, unfortunately without any success :(
looking forward to receiving some clues
I really appreciate your effort, time and energy to publish these articles and to raise awareness of topics like a sustainable climbing culture around Fontainebleau. I always liked the pro-active appr
Sympa cet article qui essaie de décrire ce que signifie le grès humide au lieu de juste critiquer les grimpeurs qui cassent des prises . Je rejoins entièrement ton analyse sur le fait que le grès d'ap
I booked a trip to Fontainebleau for October and November but had to cancel last minute due to a climbing injury. If you are planning a visit during that time, please consider this sweet Airbnb in Arb
Hiya Heather, there is a Betty meet-up planned for October 14 and November 19, so do join us if you’re around. Are you travelling on your own or do you have a crew?
Hi all, I'm planning a trip to Fontainebleau in November for a few weeks. I was wondering if there is a bit of a community there/ anyone also planning a trip in November that I could team up with for
According to bleau.info the 6c boulder is to the left of what's shown in the video. The variant in the video is an easier variant.
Hahaha, I opened this post thinking it was about a boulder called "Found Birkenstock" and pondered on the "beta" for a second before I realized... :D
There's a video of this by Michelle on YouTube: https://youtu.be/dtH4NwsnGNs
Beautiful line. Did this boulder following a straight line without using the bucket on the left, makes the line very nice/pretty to climb.
When you have your left hand on the sloper just before the t
A foot match on the crescent out right allows a high heel and its pretty much over. Not sure about the exit, maybe I should have carried on straight up rather than going slightly right.
Hi Maja, agreed with Helen.
One simple pad is enough for this block. Cheers
Hi Maja, in my opinion you don’t get to stack pads for foot holds. It’s definitely a grey area stacking pads anyway, but for me I feel reaching hand holds is legit because it’s impossible without. I
Ethics question/discussion: does going straight into the heel hook via a stacked pad count as a tick? On the one hand only the starting holds are defined on bleau.info and there's public ascents start
Hello! I really would like to come to this -- I live in Paris and want to take the RER and a bike to get there, and go back in the evening. Do you have more details about where and when to meet on the