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Updated 6 days ago:
Hot Spring (assis) 7a
91.1

Céline, December 11, reported an ascent of Hot Spring (assis) 7a at 91.1
Céline, December 10, reported an ascent of Mur-Der 7a+ at Apremont Ouest
Céline, December 3, reported an ascent of La Parabole du Tournant 7a at 91.1
Kim De Bie, November 30, reported an ascent of Concept 7a at Apremont Ouest
Updated November 28:
Super Hot 6b
95.2 Ouest

Updated November 15:
Remise à l'Heure 6a
Petit Bois

If you cannot reach the crimp before the dihedral, there is still a way!

Yana Last, November 15, reported an ascent of Le Pendule 6a at Petit Bois
Yana Last, November 15, reported an ascent of Remise à l'Heure 6a at Petit Bois
Elo, November 14, reported an ascent of Karidanse 6c at Le Calvaire
Dani P., November 11 on Trou

I used a heel, works as well (even with short legs ;-))

Updated November 9:
Trou 7a
Apremont Ouest

Fun boulder for all toe-hook loving bettys with strong and flexible hip flexors!

Updated November 8:
Hot 6a
95.2 Ouest

Tina Kleven, November 8, reported an ascent of Trou 7a at Apremont Ouest
Updated November 6:
Malicia (droite) 7a
Apremont Désert

Shorties (like me at 163 cm) might need to deploy some extra hand movements to gain the good left slot and the right hand sloper to set up the high heel, but overall this climb favours crimp and heel

Niki Ste, November 6, reported an ascent of Malicia (droite) 7a at Apremont Désert
Tina Kleven, November 5, reported an ascent of Le Mandarin (droite) 6c+ at Roche aux Oiseaux
Imke, November 5, reported an ascent of Liakyssan 7b+ at Cuvier Bellevue
Updated November 3:
Jus de Viande 5+
95.2 Ouest

Lena T, November 3, reported an ascent of Jus de Viande 5+ at 95.2 Ouest
Lena T, November 3, reported an ascent of Hot 6a at 95.2 Ouest
Lena T, November 3, reported an ascent of Super Hot 6b at 95.2 Ouest
Imke, November 3, reported an ascent of Goriak 7b at Cuvier Bellevue
Imke, November 3, reported an ascent of Isatix (assis) 7b+ at Cuvier Bellevue
Updated November 2:
Du Genou 5+
Cul de Chien

Nice and challenging 5+ Boulder (No. 26 of the red circuit), located close to the Éclipse/L'Autre Toit block (slightly north, north-east). Starting with two fairly good underclings in the low roof to

Tina Kleven, November 2, reported an ascent of Chien Assis 6a at Apremont Est
Lena T, November 1, reported an ascent of L'Ancien Six (droite) 6b at Franchard Sablons
Lena T, November 1, reported an ascent of Fenêtre à Droite 5 at Franchard Hauts Sablons
Imke, October 31, reported an ascent of Close Contact (droite) 7b at Drei Zinnen
Updated October 30:
Goriak 7b
Cuvier Bellevue

Un super mouvement avec une inversée MG qui se déclenche en dynamique et qui se termine stat.

Updated October 28:
La Myosine 6a+
Drei Zinnen

La Myosine is a really fun, compact boulder problem with some powerful moves. It’s a bit hidden in the first part of the sector, but it’s just of the main path to the namesakes of this area.

anna beam, October 28, reported an ascent of Jus de Citron 6a+ at Cul de Chien
Updated October 27:
Technodrome 6b
Éléphant

Nice boulder problem located at the lower left part of the sector, the top is not very high. Powerful move at the start and the rest is quite straight forward. Different Betas for the first move (e.g.

Franziska Steger , October 27, reported an ascent of Sophie 6b at Roche aux Oiseaux
anna beam, October 27, reported an ascent of Pancras 7a+ at Mont Pivot
Franziska Steger , October 26, reported an ascent of Technodrome 6b at Éléphant
Sarah Kuster, October 25, reported an ascent of L'Œil Triste 6a+ at Rocher des Demoiselles
Sarah Kuster, October 25, reported an ascent of Proue Puérile 6a+ at Rocher des Demoiselles
Sarah Kuster, October 25, reported an ascent of Ventre et Vague 6b+ at Rocher des Demoiselles
anna beam, October 25, reported an ascent of Le Calice 7a at Restant du Long Rocher Est
Sarah Kuster, October 24, reported an ascent of Titi Caca 7a at Roche aux Sabots Est
Sarah Kuster, October 24, reported an ascent of Titi Caca (gauche) 6c at Roche aux Sabots Est
anna beam, October 23, reported an ascent of Supplément d'Armes 7b at Rocher Gréau
Apple Le XS, October 22 on Obli-Yettes

Very hard for me. I grade it 6C, at the end of my video is the hard move in isolation, more beautifully climbed, but I was too tired. Just want to say it's possible to do it not as desperate as my cli

Updated October 22:
Obli-Yettes 6b
Bois Rond

This boulder is low and has little moves. That's why the moves are quite hard! A far move to the last hold needs some explosive power.

Sarah Kuster, October 22, reported an ascent of Mise en Repos 3 at J.A. Martin
Sarah Kuster, October 22, reported an ascent of La Gambille 3 at J.A. Martin
Sarah Kuster, October 22, reported an ascent of Aire de Jeux 6b+ at Bois des Hauts de Milly
Sarah Kuster, October 22, reported an ascent of Aire de Repos 6c at Bois des Hauts de Milly
Sarah Kuster, October 22, reported an ascent of Soucoupe Violente 6b at Bois des Hauts de Milly
Sarah Kuster, October 22, reported an ascent of Soucoupe Volante 6a+ at Bois des Hauts de Milly
Sarah Kuster, October 22, reported an ascent of Dame Nature 6b at Bois des Hauts de Milly
Franziska Steger , October 22, reported an ascent of La Myosine 6a+ at Drei Zinnen
Updated October 21:
Maurice Gratton 6a
Canche aux Merciers

Great slab with an interesting pushing move in the lower part and a rather dynamic move to the edge (for shorties).

Updated October 21:
Écaille de Lune 7c
Gorges du Houx

7b+ Start with slightly different beta

Helen Dudley, October 21 on Écaille de Lune

La version 7c démarre des règles du fond, traverse sur le rail à droite et remonte en utilisant l'écaille.

Updated October 20:
God Save my Finger 8a
Cuisinière Carnage

Super crimpy with a powerful stab to the undercut of small feet throughout. Suitable for all heights with small moves.

Updated October 20:
Isatix (assis) 7b+
Cuvier Bellevue

Classic crimpy moves with a comfortable finish. Doable alone with one pad.

Updated October 20:
Moby Dick 7c
Cuvier Bellevue

Punchy start with a crimpy finish. Super satisfying moves.

Updated October 20:
Anaklise 7a
Rocher Canon

Satisfying but surprisingly physical 3D moves on this short and sweet climb. The starting feed take a while to dry given their softer texture so best to climb only after multiple dry low humidity days

Updated October 20:
Le Goût du Jour (assis) 7b+
Roche aux Sabots

Punchy start moves into a satisfying finish. Doable with one pad solo.

Updated October 20:
Chatrang (direct) 7b+
Rocher de Corne-Biche

Pinchy and crimpy combo with a bit of a commiting roll over with the rock behind. Recommend a pad on the rock but otherwise fairly secure.

Updated October 20:
Le Petit Suisse 7b+
Restant du Long Rocher

Short but satisfying crimpy line with lots of options for hands and feet to suit all heights and shapes. Landing initially looks intimidation but is fine with one or two pads

Updated October 17:
Grandis Toi 7a
J.A. Martin

Updated October 15:
L'Isoloir (direct) 7a
Rocher de la Reine

Easier but nice version of L'Isoloir (assis). A little annoying with the rock to the left but the moves are great. The last moves on the top feels like a reward!

Updated October 11:
Vents Infects 7a
Apremont Ouest

Sitting start on the right of the block which may be a little stretched if you're super short. (use a thick pad). Fun moves traversing left on slopers and pockets, leads to a hanging foot-jam rest.

Updated October 10:
Dragon 6a
Roche aux Oiseaux

I have no idea if that’s what you’re supposed to do but I sure was fun ! I mantle with my left foot on the big step, then turn and grab the holds on the left to exit as said in bleau info !

Updated October 9:
Bagheera 7c
Maunoury

Updated October 7:
Lullaby (direct) 7a+
Apremont Ouest

Popular problem just off the path at the start of the area, it may be easier for the short to do this method than the 7a variant with the right hand arete. Stand start with hands lower than seems obv

Updated October 7:
Powerslave 7a
Apremont Ouest

If you ever get tired of dicey moves way up in the sky over dicey landings, where a tiny foot slip will land you in the hospital, come check this line out. It's a nice low lip traverse on slopers,

Updated October 7:
La Fissure en Chantier 7a
Gorge aux Châts Sud

Fun little rising crack line in a quick-drying area of Gorge aux Chats, although the start holds may seem a little. Start low down in the crack, where it forms a side-pull, and follow the good holds

Updated October 7:
Le Pare Dessus 7a+
Gorge aux Châts

Easy moves to start with, up to the bigger move to the crimp. I found a small pocket/undercling on the left side of the jug that you normally use for the big move to the crimp (not the one you use lat

Updated October 1:
Minas Tirith 7a
Mont Pivot

Updated September 25:
Le Barbot (assis) 6a+
Cul de Chien

Sit start of blue 34. Quite powerful in the lower part, followed by a cool dynamic move. It's fun! There‘s also an option of topping out further to the left.

Updated September 20:
Le Bousier 7a
Bois Rond

Morpho! Dropknee is the key to reach the highest Sloper.

Petya Metya, September 18 on Le Mouton à 6 Pattes

Update bleau.info (April 2024): The starting hold is about to break off, please do not try this boulder.

Updated September 14:
Le Toit Ouvrant 6a
Franchard Isatis

Pockets and jugs, interspersed with still more pockets and jugs. Why can't it always be this much fun?

Updated September 10:
Cochon de Terre 6a
Restant du Long Rocher Sud

start with left hand on undercling and right hand on slopper. Left foot goes right next to your left hand, then reach for the excellent hold straight ahead of you (enough space for both hands, see vid

Updated September 7:
Basic 7a
Rocher des Demoiselles Est

Right Toehook for the start is key to reach out for the best sloper for the right Hand. The right foothold for the move to the next to Sloper is much better than it seems!

Updated September 7:
L'Esprit Aveugle 7a
Buthiers Canard

If you like kneebars and footjams, this is your line! This funky boulder has a sit start followed by a kneebar to help your hands up the crack. After that you jam your feet above your had to get out o

Sarah Kuster, June 5, 2024 on Lepraria

It feels impossible to get your butt off the ground, but when you push your hips into the wall, you get tension on both legs and stand very securely in the position to reach further.

Stefanie Fella, May 29, 2024 on Semeur de Vie (droite)

Not sure if I (Stef) climbed it too much to the right, but that way does not involve the big move all the boys do in bleau.info ;)

Stefanie Fella, May 29, 2024 on Surf Betty

Cool line! I could use a right kneebar to stretch out to the dish - it's definitely harder if you are too short to do so..

Stefanie Fella, May 29, 2024 on Yoga

It would be good to avoid using the sandy hold just after the start to prevent the broken hold from further eroding

Rachel goldman, April 13, 2024 on Alta

Merci pour “las betas” Aurelie!

Hanna Wegbrant, March 17, 2024 on Da Moskitov

I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!

Jacquelyn Moore, February 27, 2024 on Le Flipper

Brilliant feature - make sure to use a right heel to take weight off for the middle moves.

Jacquelyn Moore, February 27, 2024 on La Pierre et le Sabre / La Belle Arête

Super fun climb - the holds are positive at the top - just have to be precise with your movement to get there.

Jacquelyn Moore, February 27, 2024 on L'Angle du Sérac

Brilliant line - great introduction to technical slab climbing in Fontainebleau - a must do!

Jacquelyn Moore, February 27, 2024 on Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire

For the stand start (7a) I used a left heel to make the transition in the opening moves easier - it felt like it fit me quite well to do this, I'm 167 cm in height and ape. Then reasonably good holds

Ida Selin, February 3, 2024 on L'Auvent Tripotant (raccourci)

I had many desperate attempts on the mantle, before figuring out I could place my left toe on the edge. I uploaded a video of it, maybe someone will find it useful :)

Ay Lin, January 28, 2024 on Bleautiful

hello there,
could you please let me know where to find Bleautiful? last time I was looking for it in Cuvier Merveille, unfortunately without any success :(
looking forward to receiving some clues

Rob B., November 19, 2023 on This is Our Playground ….

I really appreciate your effort, time and energy to publish these articles and to raise awareness of topics like a sustainable climbing culture around Fontainebleau. I always liked the pro-active appr

Helen’s hidden , November 10, 2023 on How to tell if a hold is wet

Sympa cet article qui essaie de décrire ce que signifie le grès humide au lieu de juste critiquer les grimpeurs qui cassent des prises . Je rejoins entièrement ton analyse sur le fait que le grès d'ap

Terri Lesher, October 2, 2023 on Airbnb in Arbonne

I booked a trip to Fontainebleau for October and November but had to cancel last minute due to a climbing injury. If you are planning a visit during that time, please consider this sweet Airbnb in Arb

Helen Dudley, September 22, 2023 on Fontainebleau in November

Hiya Heather, there is a Betty meet-up planned for October 14 and November 19, so do join us if you’re around. Are you travelling on your own or do you have a crew?

Heather, September 21, 2023 on Fontainebleau in November

Hi all, I'm planning a trip to Fontainebleau in November for a few weeks. I was wondering if there is a bit of a community there/ anyone also planning a trip in November that I could team up with for

Germaine Pötgen, September 19, 2023 on Mardi Gras

According to bleau.info the 6c boulder is to the left of what's shown in the video. The variant in the video is an easier variant.

Petya Metya, September 14, 2023 on Found Birkenstock

Hahaha, I opened this post thinking it was about a boulder called "Found Birkenstock" and pondered on the "beta" for a second before I realized... :D

Petya Metya, September 14, 2023 on La Voie Passive

There's a video of this by Michelle on YouTube: https://youtu.be/dtH4NwsnGNs

Elo, July 27, 2023 on Les Grattons du Baquet

Beautiful line. Did this boulder following a straight line without using the bucket on the left, makes the line very nice/pretty to climb.
When you have your left hand on the sloper just before the t

Anna Trybis, July 8, 2023 on Boudak

A foot match on the crescent out right allows a high heel and its pretty much over. Not sure about the exit, maybe I should have carried on straight up rather than going slightly right.

Aurélie Blaise , June 29, 2023 on La Moreau (assis)

Hi Maja, agreed with Helen.
One simple pad is enough for this block. Cheers

Helen Dudley, June 29, 2023 on La Moreau (assis)

Hi Maja, in my opinion you don’t get to stack pads for foot holds. It’s definitely a grey area stacking pads anyway, but for me I feel reaching hand holds is legit because it’s impossible without. I

Maja Lecher, June 29, 2023 on La Moreau (assis)

Ethics question/discussion: does going straight into the heel hook via a stacked pad count as a tick? On the one hand only the starting holds are defined on bleau.info and there's public ascents start

giulia, June 25, 2023 on Wolverine

Il a l'air trop bien ce bloc. A-t-on obligatoirement besoin d'un knee pad ou est'ce que c'est faisable sans?

Beatrice Milanesi, June 17, 2023 on Anak

Topo says to start with the lowest two crimps. So I started with my left hand on the smallest crimp and the right one on the good one. I found the move harder in that way.

Helen Dudley, June 11, 2023 on La Raie Publique

It’s awesome!! ????

HR, June 11, 2023 on La Raie Publique

The conversation in the back of this video is hilarious

Elena Marshall, May 19, 2023 on Simply the best!

Hello! I really would like to come to this -- I live in Paris and want to take the RER and a bike to get there, and go back in the evening. Do you have more details about where and when to meet on the

emma bullivant, May 6, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

I’m at the campsite you suggested :) it’s so beautiful I thought I’ll stay for the night to get some rest and see what’s what in the morning :)
Thanks Helen :)

Helen Dudley, May 6, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

Hiya, we are still meeting up to talk about opening new boulders. It’s going to be a bit wet, so I’m not sure how many will come, but I’ll be there between 11am and 12.

emma bullivant, May 6, 2023 on Out of the way of the May Madness - and opening clinic

Hi Helen, just seen the site that tomorrow is cancelled and the weathers not looking good for the rest of the week :( probably gonna head to the coast if that’s the case hey. But thank you again for g