Start with a juggy undercling pocket. I skip the obvious side pull to go straight to the next pocket with my left hand, allowing me to lean right and maximize on the pocket to bump up my feet and righ
Loved this little overhanging traverse. It suited me much better than my taller boyfriend who was a bit cramped underneath the ledge.
Start in a sitting position with a left heel hook; left hand is grabbing the edge of the corner, right hand is in the lower mini pocket (2-3 fingers). Create some tension to hold your body in place an
Red 29 bis. A fun dynamic challenge. Shorter folks may find it easier to go with the right hand (as in video), but left hand is also possible for some!
A fun traverse along the lip of a roof, with some tiny crimps that work for small fingers and no reaches anywhere in sight.
Are the startholds ever dry? It looks fabulous but I don't want to destroy it. Obviously... So I wonder when chances are best?!
It depends on what you like. For steep, gym-like pocket pulling, I suggest Le Toit Ouvrant, a 6a at Franchard Isatis, and it’s 6a neighbor, L’Angle d’Incidence (which was a bit harder, with a trickier
Very nice problem but a bit hard on the left hand fingers.
A fun lowball that seems to suit both shorter and taller climbers. Sitstart with one hand in an undercling and one on a side pull rail; you choose which hand goes where, either way seems to work ((or
Anyone have any ideas about a good first v3 for a beginner climber who is small (under 5ft)?
A variation of the popular 7a L'Imparfait (droite). It starts the same (low sitstart over left) and traverses right to ascend the center of the face using the big pocket out left. (Note that the left
Fantastic 3D roof climbing in a shady, quiet spot in the forest. An unusual style for Fontainebleau, the holds are quite sharp, so take some tape! Un joli toit qui ne s'envole pas. Amatrices de ré
Great boulder!
If you lack in wingspan a little knee on the right helps you to reach the crimp with your left hand & then you can easily put your right foot on the foothold.
Short but satisfying crimpy line with lots of options for hands and feet to suit all heights and shapes. Landing initially looks intimidation but is fine with one or two pads
I also found this line on bleau.info when I wanted to add the boulder to my to-do-list: https://bleau.info/cuvier/315183.html (it's called participe present assistant). Anyway, the boulder is really c
Beautiful big boulder in the first part of the area. Sitstart boulder of yellow n°17 (L'Arête Piého 2). Have two hands on the big ledge. Mantle yourself half way up with the big hole. You have an
You can find this boulder on the line between Le Toit Triangulaire 6a ( close to Le Bilboquet d'Isatis, blue n°50) and Luna 6a. Closer to Luna,just in front of it. You start in sitstart position a
This sitstart boulder is on right of orange n°6 and (La Véronique 3) on the left of light blue n°28 bis (La Vespasienne). You start at the big flake/crack and exit directly above by a mantle.
This boulder is at the beginning of the sector. When you just follow the path that is leading up to Peter Pan. Standing start, not many moves to topout.
This boulder is on the leftof red n°14 (La Sortie des Artistes). You start low on the right and exit directly in some balancing moves. Follow with your hands the good edge to the friendly topout. To t
Start at the right hand side of the ledge and climb it all the way to the left. At the jugs make a big move up right to the lip, which you can reach even if you're short. It's a great practice for a
There is only « le participe présent » (you start directly with the horizontal crag) and « le participe passé » which I think it’s the sit version of « le participe présent » if I’m not wrong (a frien
Sorry, I’m a bit confused — if this is "le participe passé" then what is the difference to "le participe présent (assis)" ? Does anyone know ?
Un super mouvement avec une inversée MG qui se déclenche en dynamique et qui se termine stat.
La difficulté a été d’aller chercher le plat main droite (qui n’est pas bien visible quand t’es petite) et le réta est un peu spécial !
Pas forcément besoin de faire le move en dynamique quand t’es petite mais je trouvais ça cool de pouvoir le faire avec ma taille !
On the way to Gaia (on the top of the ridge) you will pass this low funny boulder. It's a sitstart boulder and you can use the left arete. You start wit the left hand on the arete and with the right h
Overhanging sitstart boulder. You sitstart and exit in orange n°16: La Voie Dure à Bras. It helpt my not to mantle up in the heel, but just to use it to hold my position and move my recht hand to the
On the way to Gaia (on the top of the ridge) you will pass this low funny boulder. It's a sitstart boulder and you can use the left arete. You start wit the left hand on the arete and with the right h
Small traverse from left to right. Orange Nº7.
You start in the middle of La Traversée du GR. Sitstart and go straight up. This boulder is to the left of blue n°24.
Climb straight up the arete of this boulder. Orange Nº 15
Low traverse boulder from right to left. Orange Nº6
Belly traverse from right to left, easy topout. Blue Nº 11
Straight up boulder (wall), orange Nº 4. Nice line, fun to climb.
This small boulder is a lot of fun to climb. It sitstarts in a pit, which might feel a bit cramped when you are tall. Fun mantle to stand up. It is possible to do a kneebar and change the beta (see 3r
Very low sitstart boulder with easy slab walkout. I choose a different footholds to hold both of my hands in the startposition.
Very low, but funny boulder. Start at the left and exit at the left. There are many ways to mantel up. Moving up the right hand so I can push made a difference for me.
Don't be intimidated by the big cross over move in the middle. Focusing on keeping the right heel hook locked in really helped me to do the move!
Yeah, wow. Pretty much everything you should never do in the forest, combined into one video.
I have no idea how that slipped past us. I almost feel like leaving it, so that people have an exampThat one older video of people climbing it in a wet night session should be removed so as not to give a bad example to new climbers!
Hi Helen!
Thanks for the informative post. I would add that it is worthwile to start following the forecast days leading up to the trip, and take a look at reports of actual weather (meteoblue allo
Hey everyone,
my first post pregnancy Fontainebleau Trip with my daughter (around 8 months then) is coming up and I was wondering, if anyone has some tips for me. I have heard, that the processionary
This bloc is not often dry. It needs a couple of days without rain to do it, nice line.
Le bloc a été ouvert par mon voisin, c'est une sorte de petite boule avec une presse. Preferez les jours froids pour y aller car c'est mieux de faire le haut si ça colle...
Heel-toe cam matched with right hand from the start, and then going right hand first did it for me as well!
Very hard for me. I grade it 6C, at the end of my video is the hard move in isolation, more beautifully climbed, but I was too tired. Just want to say it's possible to do it not as desperate as my cli
La version 7c démarre des règles du fond, traverse sur le rail à droite et remonte en utilisant l'écaille.
Update bleau.info (April 2024): The starting hold is about to break off, please do not try this boulder.
It feels impossible to get your butt off the ground, but when you push your hips into the wall, you get tension on both legs and stand very securely in the position to reach further.
Not sure if I (Stef) climbed it too much to the right, but that way does not involve the big move all the boys do in bleau.info ;)
Cool line! I could use a right kneebar to stretch out to the dish - it's definitely harder if you are too short to do so..
It would be good to avoid using the sandy hold just after the start to prevent the broken hold from further eroding
I tried La mouche this evening, but my fingers where to sore.. and maybe a bit weak for that problem. But this one was a really nice consolation prize. The start is really nice!
Brilliant feature - make sure to use a right heel to take weight off for the middle moves.
Super fun climb - the holds are positive at the top - just have to be precise with your movement to get there.
Brilliant line - great introduction to technical slab climbing in Fontainebleau - a must do!
For the stand start (7a) I used a left heel to make the transition in the opening moves easier - it felt like it fit me quite well to do this, I'm 167 cm in height and ape. Then reasonably good holds
I had many desperate attempts on the mantle, before figuring out I could place my left toe on the edge. I uploaded a video of it, maybe someone will find it useful :)
hello there,
could you please let me know where to find Bleautiful? last time I was looking for it in Cuvier Merveille, unfortunately without any success :(
looking forward to receiving some clues
I really appreciate your effort, time and energy to publish these articles and to raise awareness of topics like a sustainable climbing culture around Fontainebleau. I always liked the pro-active appr
Sympa cet article qui essaie de décrire ce que signifie le grès humide au lieu de juste critiquer les grimpeurs qui cassent des prises . Je rejoins entièrement ton analyse sur le fait que le grès d'ap
I booked a trip to Fontainebleau for October and November but had to cancel last minute due to a climbing injury. If you are planning a visit during that time, please consider this sweet Airbnb in Arb