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Updated 4 days ago:
Mojo Failing 7a
Petit Rempart

Updated April 9:
Magic Bus 7b+
Buthiers Piscine

A low, powerful, roof that's not too reachy and has actual holds. What's not to love?

Updated April 8:
Holey Moley 7a
Bas Cuvier

Friction-dependent, beta-dependent, technique-dependent. If any of those things are lacking, you'll find it harder than some of the 7b's in the area.

Updated April 8:
Lullaby (direct) 7a+
Apremont Ouest

Popular problem just off the path at the start of the area, it may be easier for the short to do this method than the 7a variant with the right hand arete. Stand start with hands lower than seems obv

Updated March 31:
Narcose 7a
Apremont Envers

Not sure on this one, but having played around on it, would say for 7a you miss the big sloper on the left... bleau.info disagrees tho. And it was super! hot when I was trying it.

Updated March 31:
Makhno (sortie par Ludus) 7a
Cuvier Nord

Start as for Makhno, with the two crimps get a high left hook, then left sloper - right sloper. Beautiful.

Updated March 31:
Kilomètre 162 (assis) 6c
Drei Zinnen

A big lock off at the end, key is to fully trust the left foot!

Updated March 31:
Le Poli Soir 7a
Justice de Noisy

Be careful not to step on the ancient carvings on the big pedestal!

Updated March 31:
Chocolat 7a
Justice de Noisy

Beautiful traverse with mostly slopers, where the first few moves are definitely the hardest. Finish on the left of the nose with a very doable mantle into a victory jug

Updated March 31:
Vipère Poussette 7a
Cuvier Nord

The lower part was easy for shorties, but then the mantle harder than expected

Updated March 31:
Assis T'es pas Gâté 6a
Rocher Saint-Germain

This is a fun problem (Red #30) with a sit start into a slightly overhanging bulge. It has some powerful moves that seem harder for shorties but high heel hooks and foot placements can help make up fo

Updated March 31:
Les Tétines 7b
Maunoury

Updated March 30:
Big Mama 7a
Cuvier Rempart

Photo by Stefan Denys

Updated March 29:
Chorizo 7a
Rocher des Demoiselles

Nice balancy problem. Good friction slopers on top

Updated March 28:
Sexe et Dentelles (assis) 6b
Rocher des Demoiselles

Tricky start around the arete and then keeping it together at the top. Technical nice line

Updated March 28:
Sitting Bull 7b+
Apremont Ouest

Ooh! There's some amazing girls-only trickery to be found on this boulder. Go do it now! The conventional start is from the pinch and the crimp, but with your feet further under the roof. As

Updated March 28:
Le Lot de Boudins 7c
Franchard Isatis

A fun traverse along the lip of a roof, with some tiny crimps that work for small fingers and no reaches anywhere in sight.

Updated March 28:
Retour aux Sources 7a
95.2 Ouest

Sitstart, crimp for left hand and hook with the right. Long move to a good crimp with right hand that can be avoided using the bad slopery part on the right. There are different variations to do the t

Updated March 28:
L'Entre-Toit (direct) 7a
Franchard Isatis

On the backside of the El Pussah boulder this is a fun non-Font-esque 3D boulder problem that poses more of a problem if you are less than 155 tall! Avoid the eliminated holds as described on Bleau.i

Updated March 28:
Le Pare Dessus 7a+
Gorge aux Châts

Easy moves to start with, up to the bigger move to the crimp. I found a small pocket/undercling on the left side of the jug that you normally use for the big move to the crimp (not the one you use lat

Updated March 28:
Phase Finale (sans convention) 7a+
Gorge aux Châts

A boulder that looks reachy at first, but a little ingenuity makes this problem possible. Start with the left hand pinch, the right hand in the pocket, and a foot lock in the big hole. Short legs make

Updated March 28:
Acid 6a
Rocher du Potala

Updated March 27:
Silvergrey 7a
Mont Simonet

This boulder is perfect for shorties. You have to swift your weight on your left heel to manage to hold the slopers and traverse to the right. It has a good landing so with two pads you can easily do

Updated March 27:
Le Miroir 5+
Rocher du Potala

Beautiful vertical and crimpy line, starts a bit to the right then moves left - 6a, not 5+

Updated March 18:
Action Directe (assis) 7a
Roche aux Oiseaux

A low traverse, followed by a tricky move to get established and reach up to some nice Font slopers. A really good "First 7a", and very doable for shorties.

Updated March 18:
Uruguay 7a
Roche aux Oiseaux

If you have short arms, this problems looks impossibly wide at first glance. But you can outsmart the powerful moves with some sneaky footwork making this problem an enjoyable entry-level 7a.

Updated March 18:
Plastikman 7a
Franchard Isatis

This is the left variant of Donnant-Donnant that tall guys do because it has a crazy big jump to the lip. But there

Updated March 18:
Graviton 7a
Roche aux Sabots

This is one of those lines that sucks you in. You'll get up to the slopers on your first go, and they don't even feel that bad at first. But the mantle is crazy hard no matter how you go at it (and

Updated March 18:
Quartier Latin 7a
Franchard Isatis

Big throw to start things off, then a funky mantle and some crimps above. A little of everything, really. It's hard for shorties because of that huge blind jump at the beginning and the subsequent

Updated March 18:
Abdolobotomy (assis) 7a
Franchard Isatis

Looks pretty straightforward, sitting there right on the trail. Easy to pad out, no bad fall potential. Those slopers do look a bit slippery but really, how hard can it be? Narrator: *It was n

Updated March 18:
De Brevitate Vitae 7a
Franchard Isatis

First move is easier if you're tall, but can be done by shorties using a couple of terrible crimps in opposition. Pulling the roof, it helps to be small, so it all works out in the end.

Updated March 18:
Respect d'Intention 7a
Franchard Isatis

Fun problem that feels hard at first but succumbs to plenty of feminine-foot-trickery. Sit start under the roof, and move out to the arete with powerful moves on a left heel hook at the back of t

Updated March 18:
Goriak 7b
Cuvier Bellevue

Un super mouvement avec une inversée MG qui se déclenche en dynamique et qui se termine stat.

Updated March 18:
Lapin ou Canard 7a
Franchard Hautes Plaines

Fun fun fun moves out the roof, and then you have options. This option heads straight out right to a big sloper and a fight to get established above.

Updated March 18:
Beatle Juice 7a+
Cuisinière Crête Sud

Powerful and technical. And given its location it gets lots of traffic so chances are there will be plenty of pads and spotters around if you try it on a busy weekend. It may be suffering a bit fr

Updated March 18:
Bossanova 7a
Franchard Hautes Plaines

Really beautiful line on the right arete of the boulder which can be found on the top of the hill on the west side of the sector. Took me some tries to figure out the exact beta and sequence. The move

Updated March 16:
Da Moskitov 6c
Cuisinière Crête Sud

Overhanging, pockets and a good top out!

Updated March 14:
Mûmak 7a
Apremont Brûlis

Fun low-ball with classic Fontainebleau Elephant skin. Be careful when brushing, the boulder is very sandy.

Updated March 10:
Confortable 6a+
Rocher Canon

Départ assis, possible de partir avec les jambes vers la gauche ou la droite. Super fun overhanging compression route with a sitstart that is easier for the short :-)

Updated February 28:
Emportement 5
Apremont Ouest

red 30 - arete