A do-able, but burly 7a+, this is often a first in the grade, but it doesn't suit everyone. Shorties have an easier time with the bunched up start, but get paid back with a long reach getting to the good holds in the crack.
Hey - has anybody a good advice for the first move? I sorted out the rest of the boulder, but I could not work out the first move properly. I had sooo many tries and sometimes I made the first move nearly perfectly and then I could not repeat it for another 20 goes... I left quite sad with bleeding fingers and still dont get, what I have to change. I am 1.71 tall and started with both hands low in the middle. Thanx
For my part, it was a thing to understand how to hold the crack, it's like a jamming thing. I did not start as everyone tho because I did started with a right hell hook to go to the crack as I was short to do the "original beta" :) Hope it could help!
Hiya Elin, yeah! this move is brutal, but there are a couple of techniques that I found to work. I'm a bit shorter than you, so this is hypothetical, could you use a right heel hook on the right hand flake. I found this made the first move fairly solid, but I was still too short to reach the hold. In the end I used brute force and did man-beta, but the placement of the right foot was still critical!
Oh thanks for your answers - I could work out the jam and finish the boulder up from the jam, but didn't get enough time to sort my hand right with the normal mens beta. I was a bit frustrated, because my partner (about 1.85) did this move so easily (and he's not stronger than me ;-)) - so it depends on height a lot right? A heel hook right could help to stabilize... good idea. Thanks a lot... And thanx for all your hard work in the forest.
Hiya Elin, I am 170cm, and I used the right heel hook beta. I just uploaded a video that misses the sit, and has my kids screaming in the background :-), but it shows the heel hook beta that Helen is talking about. I hope this helps ...
Hi Caroline - thanks for the video. So great to see bouldering-success after having a baby... :-) I will try out to use this heel hook for the first move into the crack... up from there I didn't need it, but in the video it looked like it makes the second move a bit more stable aswell. Can't wait to be back. Thanks a lot
I know I'm really late with this but for the first move it helped me a lot to sit really low under that starting flake (more a lying start than a sit start really 😅), I'm putting my left foot on the good foothold under the right hand and flag the right outwards. When my left hand is in the crack I sort my left foot to the left and put in the right heelhook for the rest of the roof 😊 Not sure if you're still on it Elin, but maybe this helps other people too
Such a cool beta Magdalena... And your video is not too late :-) I will try out, if it works for me. I hope, that better skin will make a difference too. Thanks a lot.
No Climbing Today!
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.