Didn't get a video but the beta I used was more or less: left hand on good sidepull, right hand on sloper sidepull crimp to the right. High good foot left. Right hand to "good" crimp (the uppermost obvious one), footmatch, left hand to supersmall and sharp crimp. Very high left foot to the left. Go with left hand to left part of the sloper top. Match and mantle!
This looks like a very nice and obvious line on the video, but people tell me there is a confusion about which holds are in and which are out. Are there more holds in than is shown in this excellent beta video?
Started with my left hand in a weirdly twisted undercling, right hand on a crimp, and went with the right to the crimps above. A little hard to come into the next pinch with the right hand, intermediate crimp for left and then up to the better holds. Great line!!
Very nice problem indeed. My shorter friend did another beta ot get to the sloper, by matching the big jug, placing a high heelhook above her head on the sloper and going up with the left hand. Remember to do a proper tickmark for the left foot before the topout (look at the video and see what I mean =), and remove it afterwards)!
Does anybody know how this is supposed to be climbed? Can you use the left arête? Is there another beta than jumping to the right arête? Looks like a beautiful climb with many variations!
No Climbing Today!
^
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.