Isn't the video "Pulpfriction (gauche)" debout (or "Pulped friction" in some guidebooks) rather than "Pulpfriction (debout) 6b" ? bleau.info and my guidebooks say the 6b version is on the right side of the arete, and that this version is 5c
Hiya Jessie, think it depended on whether you use the ‘pedestal’ block, but it’s pretty confusing. The route descriptions and names of these on Bleau.info are undergoing a flux at the moment, so hopefully they will settle at a consensus soon 🤗
Hi Jessie, I ran into the same contradiction as you. The stand start on the left didn't feel like a 6b either, more like 5+, in my opinion. I interpreted the foto and description of Bleau.info to mean that the 6b goes along the other face, that is the standing start of pulpfriction 7a+. And this version felt more 6b-ish. But not sure about that. That would mean the stand start on the left side doesn't exist on bleau.info yet.
The Jingo Wobbly Top Secret guidebook calls the version in this video Tabac Froid 5c. There’s a Tabac Froid 5+ on Bleau.info, but the photos and video there show a climber on the face to the right. I think those may have been uploaded in the wrong place, because they seem more like what Bleau.info calls Pulp Friction (debout), 6b without the pedestal. Bleau.info uses the same name, Pulp Friction (debout), for the 5+ version of the same climb that uses the pedestal, but that version is called Pulped Friction 5c in the guidebook. So… clear as mud, right? 😂
No Climbing Today!
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.