I started climbing in 1989 (trad and boulders), then did a lot of sport climbing, but focus solely on bouldering now. I live in Boulder, Colorado and have been visiting Fontainebleau every chance I get since 1999. I’m 60+ but still having fun and improving so why stop?
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The Jingo Wobbly Top Secret guidebook calls the version in this video Tabac Froid 5c. There’s a Tabac Froid 5+ on Bleau.info, but the photos and video there show a climber on the face to the right. I think those may have been uploaded in the wrong place, because they seem more like what Bleau.info calls Pulp Friction (debout), 6b without the pedestal. Bleau.info uses the same name, Pulp Friction (debout), for the 5+ version of the same climb that uses the pedestal, but that version is called Pulped Friction 5c in the guidebook. So… clear as mud, right? 😂
We had a hard time finding this. If you don’t have an app with gps, the topo on Bleau.info is good- just note that this is on the “sky blue” circuit, not the regular blue circuit. (They are not very close together and while the area is lovely for walking it can be cumbersome with pads 😉)
The first move felt impossible until I got a little toe scum along with the heel hook. The next two moves are blind, so it helps to memorize how your left arm looks and feels when you are on them correctly (I was racing against rain, so I actually put a chalk mark on my arm- silly but effective 😂).
We decided to try this yesterday. It seemed sturdy, but as my (tall but slim) husband made his way up the big slopers out right the boulder definitely moved. It was so slight that he didn’t feel it, but I was standing on that side and saw it rocking back and forth each time he moved his right hand. He could also rock it by leaning into the boulder from the backside. It’s been rainy lately, so maybe it’s worse when the ground is soft??? Either way, I’d skip this one. Disappointing because it seemed like fun.
I did this at the Betty meet up in October. We all used different holds to top it out- some went straight up, I moved left because I like those layback moves. I don’t think it changes the grade but thought I should mention it.
Please be aware of the following warning about this boulder on bleau.info: “Caution (April 2019) : some climbers have reported that the boulder is slightly moving. Be very careful if you try it and tell us any evolution of the problem.”
That’s the same as the videos on bleau.info. It is the description there that is confusing (“sitstart in the little pit”). Traversing in from the left is definitely better. But I can’t claim a FA for skipping a few moves 😉.
We always bring three: a small half-pad for sit starts, one medium size pad, and one large pad. If the boulder is very high or involves a traverse, we may bring additional pads. But the basic three cover most situations.
I did the same line as shown in both videos posted on bleau.info for Black Hole Sun, but they started further left and traversed right (two moves) to my start point. That version is probably better. I'd have done it that way if I saw the videos first. But I just had the bleau.info description- "Sitstart in a little pit and exit directly"- which I interpreted as seen in my video. Maybe the videos on bleau.info are actually a different problem. Either way, I can't claim a FA :) But we can take my video down to avoid confusion.
When we stayed at Maison Bleau years ago, our host Neil Hart recommended https://www.yr.no/. He lived there year round and thought it was the most accurate. It has worked well for us when we visit!
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.