For my part, it was a thing to understand how to hold the crack, it's like a jamming thing. I did not start as everyone tho because I did started with a right hell hook to go to the crack as I was short to do the "original beta" :) Hope it could help!
De toute façon, le plus dur c'est vraiment de se lever, je pense que quelqu'un peut y aller 15 fois et pas se lever, c'est vraiment particulier 🤷♀️ Perso je me lève de face, mon copain n'y arrivait pas, il a réussi en talon du coup. Si ce n'est pas la version réalisée, je comprends vraiment pas ce qu'il faut faire d'autre... D'autant que cette version est bien fun je trouve.
Just saw the video of Le Denmat in La Super Prestat, I guess for him the answer is that it doesn't matter at all haha. (Link : https://vimeo.com/162671061)
The description on Bleau.info is quite messy, is this starting on the right with an undercling to go to the right for the first move (with a left toe and a right hell hook) or is this starting more on the left for you? 😊 Thanks!
Hello girls, Helen is right, the original version of Black Hole Sun start before the start that you did but maybe you can send it as a first ascent like "Black Hole Sun (raccourci)". If you want to see the original version, I just upload a video :)
Hey Christina,I did have the same trouble, espacially with bra haha. I didn't found a secret yet since my body is more like a 34/36 and which my shoulders it's not the same. But well, I do wear free shoulders tops as much as I can and if it's cold, the cardigans are always great for the office or some sweat.
Hello Josie, This boulder is friendly for short people with a special start : You can start with a double toe-hook or a heel hook (the last one was my beta) and hold the start hold :)
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.