Abdolobotomy 7a

Franchard Isatis, Fontainebleau

Prow SitStart Slopers

Looks pretty straightforward, sitting there right on the trail. Easy to pad out, no bad fall potential. Those slopers do look a bit slippery but really, how hard can it be?

Narrator: It was not easy.

But hey, the thing is popular for a reason. Chances are you'll spend a sunny afternoon (or five) on it at some point.

Climbed by

Discussion

Theresa Reiter, October 10

The start totally works out. BUT: I tried it the other day and I was super lost on the last moves (which should be 6b or sth) because they seemed super reachy for me. My boyfriend just flashed it moving from the good upper hold directly to the top. For me it starts with the move with the left hand in the upper „good“ hold. But I only get it on the lower edge so it feels not that good. And then the move out to the right to some miserable tiny something, cannot move forward from that but cannot reach anything else^^ maybe some tips for my next trip?

Aurélie Blaise , October 10

Hey Teresa, historically, the good upper hold is not in! so your boyfriend flashed something around 6b! I know it seems weird but that's some knowledge I've got from old bleausards. That said, I understand you, it's a tough mouve and it also took me a while to figure it out. Come back fresh and you'll do it!!! It really starts 2 hands in the crack, then move to the right and use the roundy jug: and you have to do a mouve that give you abs pain for a few days afterwards to do the original 7a. Be strong, you'll get it next time!!

Here is the bleau.info description: "Sitstart in the middle with a two hands on the low ledge and a heelhook on it and exit to the right via the summit with a pinch and slopers."

Helen Dudley, October 10

I’m not quite following your description Theresa, but I can tell you what I did for the end which was quite fun. I was tracking with my left heel, and when I got up to the final arête, I kept putting my heel higher and higher until it was over the top of the boulder, and I was pushing down with my hands. I’m sure there are many more sane ways, but you could give it a go 🤪

Theresa Reiter, October 10

Sorry it’s always super hard to describe it^^ I tried it exactly like the videos here but first I find it super hard to reach the „roundy jug“ high enough in a way that it feels good. I am just standing there on my Tippi-Toes. After that I manage to put the left heel hook. But then the party really starts :D My Problem are the holds following which you cannot see on Helens Video on the right side. It is a miracle for me how to get your left heel hook closer when I am only having nothing on my right hand. All the other videos I tried to Analyse get immediately to the second better sloper to get their heel closer. But I don’t know how you were able to reach it. My next trip will be on Christmas - maybe I just have to try it again and again.

Helen Dudley, October 10

Thank you for pointing out the error in video labelling 😳🤭. That’s actually not me 😬. I didn’t get a video of my crazy high heel…. I shall endeavour to get one before Christmas 🤗

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