Même méthode qu'Helen jusqu'au trou main droite, puis j'ai changé mon talon droit pour une pointe et j'ai continué mon chemin dans la sortie en 6a. Joli mouvement de départ. Se travaille bien seul avec un seul pad. Haut facile et pas dangereux, c'est le début qui est "difficile".
Ethics question/discussion: does going straight into the heel hook via a stacked pad count as a tick? On the one hand only the starting holds are defined on bleau.info and there's public ascents starting with the hook (albeit by taller people that could reach it from a single pad, which my leg simply is not long enough for), on the other hand the move into the hook is a crux in its own right that definitely ups the difficulty by another + imo. It's such a cool move either way though and definitely feels possible, I was just wondering about the general opinion on these types of ascents!
Hi Maja, in my opinion you don’t get to stack pads for foot holds. It’s definitely a grey area stacking pads anyway, but for me I feel reaching hand holds is legit because it’s impossible without. In this case the route is definitely possible from a sit with different foot holds. The move after the high heel is easier if you’re short, so it kind-of evens the playing field a bit. I guess, ultimately, you decide for yourself, because you only climb to please yourself, no one else. Have fun!!!
Hi Maja, agreed with Helen. One simple pad is enough for this block. Cheers
No Climbing Today!
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.