I tried it as well and indeed it’s very core and shoulder intens. For me it felt a bit stretched. But maybe you could send a message to either Bérengère or Aurélie on instagram, since they did it☺️?
I am also curious of anyone can confirm for sure since it says “sitstart under the crack”. I can’t find any other videos. Can I ask where you have seen them Kathrin? I would like to see them too😀
On the video on bleau.info the climber uses an undercling on the right. For me it felt easier to use the right undercling starthold for a heelhook after the first move, and just use the arete for hands. The boulder is nice when you are short because you have to squize between two boulders. Finish with a high right heelhook.
It looks cool but a little high. I am all alone so don’t have any spotters. Maybe another time. If you have other nice suggestions of not to high boulders graded from 6c untill 7b let me know. I will be here all week in case you would like to join. Have a nice weekend😊
Damnit! What did you do? Just squad start and a bit higher? I noticed there is a not so good hold down there too. I thought maybe use that instead for the left hand and put a toe or heel around the left arete to replace the hand haha.
The boulder looks amazing but the sitstart is quite stretched, I can not get my butt anywhere near the ground if it starts on both sides. Any suggestions? Where do you start? Thanks for the help!
I am not anywhere near as strong as you so I don’t think I have any change in this boulder😅. I think tomorrow we will go to either cuisiniere or apremont desert
Next weekend I will be back in Fontainebleau. I am looking for beautifull lines that suit the really shorts (152cm). I am into overhang/roofs/heelhooks(right, left is injured).Tips for nice lines that I have to try are super welcome! I have a huge ticklist thanks to this website but can't choose where to go this time :)
Hello everyone,I am so happy that this platform was created, thanks for that!I spend a lot of years in a font not being to able to climb anything above 6a. A lot of times this was because I saw boulders in my guidebook and after walking there for 15 minutes I looked at the boulder and realised the moves were to morpho for me. Now everytime I go I do my homework in advance and come to Font well prepared. Now bettybeta is one of the websites I use, so I want to make sure it keeps on growing! What I have noticed is that there are mainly climbers that climb quit hard stuff. It would be cool to get less experienced climbers on the platform aswell. I was wondering how I could help to spread the word. Insta posts? Flyers? Hashtags?I would love to hear if there are any ideas about that. Have a great day!
I also get annoyed with this so often. I work in our local bouldering gym and even have tall guys that I gave “boulder basics” training tell me how to do a 5 that I need to do different because of height.When I try to explain that I am only about 1,50 and they are 1,90 they say that they think that that’s not the problem. Someone even said ‘he wanted to teach me how to climb’.In these moments I really need to calm down and be proud of the soloutions I find.Luckely my boyfriend started climbing because of me. Allthough he climbs way less he most of the times climbs way harder things then me, but he always understands that I need to do it different and comforts me when it pisses me off sometimes :)
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.