Hello! Question-- how are you guys (ladies) releasing your right toe so easily? Is it the left toe placement that is really good? I was trying this and could not release the right toe at all-- and looking at the videos, it looks like there are some core and left shoulder engagement, but nothing super intense.... I can't figure this out!!Also tried the right heel hook beta to get the matched hands-- it's awesome and makes it super easy to get to the right hand, but really hard to get out of the left toe after.
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.