Abdolobotomy (assis) 7a

The start totally works out. BUT: I tried it the other day and I was super lost on the last moves (which should be 6b or sth) because they seemed super reachy for me. My boyfriend just flashed it moving from the good upper hold directly to the top. For me it starts with the move with the left hand in the upper „good“ hold. But I only get it on the lower edge so it feels not that good. And then the move out to the right to some miserable tiny something, cannot move forward from that but cannot reach anything else^^ maybe some tips for my next trip?

I’m not quite following your description Theresa, but I can tell you what I did for the end which was quite fun. I was tracking with my left heel, and when I got up to the final arête, I kept putting my heel higher and higher until it was over the top of the boulder, and I was pushing down with my hands. I’m sure there are many more sane ways, but you could give it a go 🤪

Sorry it’s always super hard to describe it^^ I tried it exactly like the videos here but first I find it super hard to reach the „roundy jug“ high enough in a way that it feels good. I am just standing there on my Tippi-Toes. After that I manage to put the left heel hook. But then the party really starts :D My Problem are the holds following which you cannot see on Helens Video on the right side. It is a miracle for me how to get your left heel hook closer when I am only having nothing on my right hand. All the other videos I tried to Analyse get immediately to the second better sloper to get their heel closer. But I don’t know how you were able to reach it. My next trip will be on Christmas - maybe I just have to try it again and again.

Thank you for pointing out the error in video labelling 😳🤭. That’s actually not me 😬. I didn’t get a video of my crazy high heel…. I shall endeavour to get one before Christmas 🤗