The normal sit start to this is a bit awkward if you're short, but creative high-footwork gets you to big holds. Save some strength and confidence for the top move. Its a good hold you're going for!
Super classe, il y a une version en 7a en évitant le trou de gauche mais pourquoi se contraindre alors que les mouvements de ce bloc sont tellement naturels. Peut se faire seul/1 pad ok!
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.