Fabiola, August 6, 2021 on La Marie-Rose

You have two options, equally sketchy: You can chimney down as far as possible using the boulder to the right, then drop. Or you can take the leap onto that right boulder and (presuming you survive) casually walk off the other side of that.


Getting up is almost as hard!

Fabiola, October 12, 2020 on Tango Triste (assis)

Yes, it starts with a hard move to pull off the ground using that undercling, then moves left to the crack. Bleau.info has a good video.

Fabiola, June 9, 2019 on Nostalgie (assis)

Your sequence looks correct to me. You're right that it's tough to figure out exactly what's on and what's not, with those giant holds wanting to suck you out right and onto easy ground. I can't imagine anybody avoiding them better than you did.

If anything, you may have accidentally done the harder (7a+/7b) version.

Nice work!

Fabiola, April 24, 2019 on Close Contact (droite)

I think the only hold that's officially "out" on this problem is the big jug way out right above the start hold.

It's kinda silly though, since that hold doesn't really help you climb the problem. The important thing is still that little right foothold just under the lip, which is easier to get onto from the nice sloper shown in the video.

I've also heard people talk about the furthest right top jug as being out. That one is easy enough to avoid though, since by the time you're in a position to reach it, you're standing in a stable position and can grab pretty much anything you like to top out. I wouldn't worry too much about that one. (I didn't, and used that hold while topping out :)

Good luck!

Fabiola, April 18, 2019 on Lullaby

At 5:53 in that video, to be exact. Nice send, by the way!