La Chicorée 7a

Bas Cuvier, Fontainebleau

Crimps Slab

Tiny little crimps on a balancy slab. Shorties have an extra crux hopping up on to the first foothold, so stacked pads may be needed to compensate for all the years of erosion at the base of the boulder.

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Discussion

Helen Dudley, May 10, 2019

For me the crux was getting off the ground, although even after the good hold there is a long reach to the left hand crimp. We used a slightly worse vertical crimp that was fractionally closer. For the fist move my beta involved pressing down with my right thumb on a marginal crozzle (see photo), and Beth used the tiny edge next to the crack.

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