A hidden gem in a dark corner, this has a tendency to 'sweat' in moist conditions. Sitstart on good crimps, without a crashpad. There are several different ways up, and different frames will climb very differently, but there is no reaching past the difficult sections. The stand alone goes at about 6a+
If you get it on a good day the tiny sloper crimp on the right will work as a lay-back that turns the problem into two 6bs tied together by a lucky catch. I used my flexible hips to get in a high left heel hook and bump up onto the key undercling that marks the start of the 6a+ upper section.
It's also somewhat "lank-proof", so you won't have to suffer a constant stream of no-technique strong dudes hiking the thing while you project. They'll pull hard, swear, fall off a few times, and go home. Leaving you in peace in this nice hidden corner of the forest.
Ah! Mine de Rien! Cette première prise est vraiment horrible. Il dépend de la condition et constitue le premier crux. Les gars de grande taille ne l’utilisent pas. Tu pourrais peut-être essayer une méthode plus directe. Le deuxième crux est d’attraper l’inverse. Bon courage
No Climbing Today!
Rain sucks, but broken holds suck even more. Remember, never climb on wet rock in Fontainebleau.
The sandstone becomes brittle, and pulling on it will ruin classic problems. Drying it doesn't help, because it's still wet and weak inside.
All you can do is wait for better conditions.